Thanks all. I will see what I can figure out.
On Sun, Jun 2, 2013 at 4:09 PM, Pat Horne wrote:
> Tim,
>
> I agree, the cotter key doesn't look too robust! Are you sure the
> stack of washers opposite the cotter key are correctly placed? Usually
> a cotter key is against a washer so it doesn't wear through.
>
> Can you move the location of the cable closer to the arm? I would try
> either threading the pin that is held with the cotter key and use a
> nut on each side of the arm to lock it in place with enough play to
> allow it to rotate as needed. A bit of Locktite or drilling holes in
> the nuts and pin to allow safety wire to be run through them should do
> the trick, or use collars with set screws on each side of the arm.
>
> Another thing to try is to find a shouldered shaft where you can use
> the shoulder on the side where the cotter key is, with some jamb nuts
> on the other side of the arm, then the nuts and washers that hold the
> cable.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> Thusly spake Tim
>
>> Not sure what to call it but I would like to use a different
>> end/terminal that what was included with this carb linkage kit:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/82293958@N06/8928731354/
>>
>> Looking for suggestions to replace the little bits you can see on the
>> left that has the cable stuck in it for the picture. (I do have a new
>> cable that is not frayed.) I donbt like how these little bits are
>> supposed to hold the cable. Also, it is all held on the rod by the
>> smallest and thinnest wire cotter pin I have ever seen. The rod on
>> the
>> right is just the bare rod that will receive the replacement part
>> that
>> holds the cable shown as a reference.
>>
>> Whatta think?
>> Thanks
>> tim
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>>
>
> --
> Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
> (512) 797-7501 Voice & Text 5026 FM 2001
> Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
> www.hornesystemstx.com
> -- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
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