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Re: [Shop-talk] BFH ! (was: Rock 1, Mower 0 ?)

To: "shop-talk" <>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] BFH ! (was: Rock 1, Mower 0 ?)
From: "Eric J Russell" <>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:29:06 -0400 a=q7S00o-5r64A:10 a=P2oOn6vrs4wA:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10 a=S2wpYzp2RsyRkoRNwqcm1Q==:17 a=xwPayol1AAAA:8 a=zOoktvdPAAAA:8 a=p50Rgy5_AAAA:20 a=CmCnrXBzdkjahClVNIwA:9 a=wPNLvfGTeEIA:10 a=0Ob1RWNGeVAA:10 a=S2wpYzp2RsyRkoRNwqcm1Q==:117 reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0
References: <83A969DFA3194574BDC5424F73A2F105@EricJRussellPC> <DC720AC5A1FE4C66AEF1B968F73A999A@EricJRussellPC>
For $20 I bought a new blade adapter & blade. Before installing them I 
propped the mower up on its side and used the Redneck Dial Indicator (tm) to 
check for run out of the crankshaft under the mower's deck. (I clamped a 
scrap piece of wood across the bottom of the mower and a second cut off 
aimed at the crankshaft's end.) With the spark plug removed & turning the 
engine by hand I could see the shaft wobble by ~ 1/8".

I next tried a length of pipe as a lever to try to move it back into 
place.My pipe was only about 18" long and didn't give much leverage.

Figuring I had little to lose, I marked the wobble with some chalk and 
positioned the shaft so I could whack it with a BFH. A few moderate whacks 
didn't do anything. A more forceful whack did the deed! No more wobble and I 
noticed the engine seemed to turn easier. (I do think the resistance I do 
feel is the camshaft operating the valves.)

I then installed the new blade adapter & blade and started it up. It ran 
fine, no smoke, no vibrations or bad noises. When I shut it off it coasted 
to a stop like usual - vs the sudden stop when I ran it a few days ago 
without a blade attached.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric J Russell" <>
To: "Eric J Russell" <>; "shop-talk" 
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ?

>> Hit a large rock the lawn mower.
> Thanks for the many replies.
> To answer the questions/suggestions raised - the spark plug was out when I 
> turned the engine by hand. The resistance I feel might be the valve 
> springs. It seems the consensus is to try either a new blade or at least a 
> roughly straightened/balanced old blade and see how it runs. The key in 
> the blade adapter is (was) integral to the part. It is an aluminum part 
> with the 'key' punched in from the side. I might try just bolting it 
> together (without a functioning key) to see if it runs better with the 
> blade.
> I saw this on You Tube: I do 
> have an assortment of hammers...
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC 

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