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Re: [Shop-talk] garage expansion gets green light

To: Eric J Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] garage expansion gets green light
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 09:24:51 -0500
The shop I built is 30x40x10 with a 900 sq ft apartment on top, so it 
sounds like it is similar to what you are building.
It is basically one room, 22x40, plus a bathroom and office. IT has one 
door in the center of the long wall.

Consider moving your lift to one of the end stalls and put the daily 
driver in the middle. This way if you need more room temporally from one 
of the other two stalls yo can leave your daily driver outside and use 
that space right next to where you are working.

I installed 1/4" pegboard on most of the walls in the shop area, floor 
to ceiling. In some areas this works fine, but in others, it isn't too 
useful.

As mentioned by others, you can get the doors installed that go 
vertically to the ceiling before they lay over. There are some door 
openers that mount of the torsion shaft for the door that takes no room 
at all. I think it was Wayne Dayton, but don't have time to verify that 
right now.

When doing the electrics, run at least some of the wires in conduit so 
you can pull in whatever wires you need for something special. Make sure 
the conduit is large in order to allow for the extra/larger wires. (If 
you have access to the space above the ceiling after the shop is 
completed, you can just run the conduit up into that area from some of 
the boxes, then run the wires normally back to the breaker panel - allow 
extra conduits into the space from the breaker panel also.

In my shop I ran about 10 spare circuits out of the two breaker panels 
into a metal box in the attic so that I could get access to the extra 
breaker circuits if/when needed. So far I needed one of them, which 
wouldn't have been possible without much sore or drywall cutting.

I have a utility sink in my shop, as well as a bath with sink, commode 
and shower.

I heat my show with a wood burning stove and installed copper 
refrigeration lines for possible future A/C

I pre-wired for exhaust fans in the welding area.

Some folks have mentioned that a heated floor is nice to have in cold 
areas. In Texas that is not a problem, but may be in your area.

The ceiling cover in my shop is corrugated metal. It can be removed when 
access to the space above the ceiling is needed for 
plumbing/electrical/ducting is needed, and it does a good job of 
reflecting light around.

Consider taller overhead doors. There may be times when you need to get 
a load of something into the shop and a stock 7' high door may not be 
tall enough. I installed a 10' tall by 12' wide door. I can get my old 
travel trailer with the roof mounted A/C in there without any problem.

You didn't say how large your pond is, but it may be large enough to use 
with a heat pump for your heating and cooling. It is much more efficient 
than standard air-sourced heat pumps.

If possible, make the outside of the shop a material that will not need 
much maintenance. I used Hardie products. They are fiber-cement. This 
includes the trim. I will still have to paint it about every 10 years, 
but won't have rot to deal with. I used a metal roof, but not everyone 
likes the look.

Telephone connection.

Ethernet connection.

TV connection.

If you have room in your mechanical room you might want to wall off a 
small office.


Peace,
Pat
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 
>garage 3 sm.jpg]
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-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems 
(512) 797-7501 Voice            5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com  Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
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