Mine apparently will leak down a little. I pumped it up today around noon
(about 140 PSI) and closed the discharge valve and switched the breaker
off. This evening it was down to around 90; still a LOT better than my old
Sears compressor. I did find a nice Siemens fused disconnect at Home Depot
for $21 today; I'll be installing it with a couple of 30 amp fuses
tomorrow. I also got a bunch of 3/4" copper pipe and fittings; I hope I
still know how to sweat copper. That stuff has sure gotten expensive....
It's going to be nice to have compressed air at both ends of the shop
without dragging hoses all over the place.
Dave
At 11:20 AM 7/5/2007 -0400, wmc_st@xxiii.com wrote:
>At 04:58 PM 7/4/2007, you wrote:
> >The old compressor has a lever on the pressure switch assembly so I
> >can switch it on and off and I normally leave it off when I'm not
> >in the shop. The new compressor has similar pressure switch but no lever.
>
>Put a 90deg turn ball valve on the tank's outlet. Leave it powered &
>pressurized all the time. The compressor & tank shouldn't leak down
>at all; you'll run the motor less and consume less power vs letting
>it drain down and pumping it up from zero.
>
> >There's no reason to keep it energized and pressurized when I don't need it.
>
>Sure there is, see above. Mine used to have a leak on the pump's
>piping, and the hoses, etc usually leak. So it would kick on a
>couple times a day. Now with the shut off at the tank, it can sit
>unused for 2 weeks, and still be ready to go when I need it. Most
>the stuff I do is small, so it lessens wear not having to pump it up
>from zero just to inflate tires or dust off metal with the grinder.
>
> >The instructions said to use ISO 100 compressor oil, single weight
> >non detergent motor oil (no weight given)
>
>I think anything with pistons and rings should be allowed to
>thoroughly break in before using synthetic. It sounds like the
>manufacturer thinks 30 weight is appropriate for full temperature
>use. Use straight-weight 30 for a while (50+ hours???) Then go
>synthetic with the narrowest gap, like 10W30 unless your shop gets
>well below freezing, then maybe 5W30.
>
> -Wayne
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