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RE: Best way to remove broken bolts

To: <cak@dimebank.com>, <dmschei@attglobal.net>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Best way to remove broken bolts
From: <Tim.Mullen@trw.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 15:15:17 -0500
Chris Kantarjiev [mailto:cak@dimebank.com] wrote:
>
> Check out http://bosphorus.dimebank.com/tech/BrokenBolt.html for
> a long disccussion of "tried and sometimes true" techniques...

I don't think I'd pay much attention to the above "suggestions".  He 
seems to recommend using EZ-Outs a lot - even going to the 
recommendation of using an impact wrench with EZ-Outs!!

In my experience, EZ-Outs tend to break with the slightest bit of 
excess force (I can't even imagine using an impact on them) as they 
are very strong, yet very brittle.

I've had luck drilling out broken (and rusted) studs in a cast 
iron exhaust manifold - basically, the cast iron tended to be harder 
than the steel studs, and it tended to "guide" the drill into the 
center even when drilled slightly off center.  I started with a 
small drill and progressively drilled larger holes until I was at 
the drill size for taping the proper size stud. At that point, I 
ran the tap into the hole, and it pretty much followed the 
original threads in the case iron - simply chipped out what was 
left of the stud's original threads.

My other case was the removal of a broken (and corroded) bolt 
from an aluminum head.  The EZ-Out broke in the hole.  Had to 
remove the head and take it to a machine shop.  They managed 
to weld a nut (thru the center of the nut) to the remains of 
the stud (in spite of the broken EZ-Out), and the broken bolt 
came out easily.

Avoid EZ-Outs.  I've yet had one work except when I broke the 
bolt while installing it (over tightening it).  Any corrosion 
and they will just not work and will just make things worse...

Tim Mullen

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