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Re: Engine out of TR6 -- how to mount it on the stand?

To: "Mullen, Tim" <Tim.Mullen@trw.com>
Subject: Re: Engine out of TR6 -- how to mount it on the stand?
From: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 08:55:21 -0700
"Mullen, Tim" wrote:
> 
> Those bolts/holes sound kind of small.  Aren't there any
> larger holes?  

Yes, the bolts are 5/16" diameter (1/2" heads) -- my
fault in typing without proofing what I said in a hurry
to get it mounted (rented the engine hoist).

So I currently have it mounted using 4 5/16" bolts
threaded about 1/2" into the block, and it seems to
hold fine (the engine weighs about 400 lbs with the
head, so with the head off probably about 340 lbs).

A couple folks suggested re-mounting the steel backing
plate (the plate that attaches between the engine and
transmission), thread in a bunch of the mounting bolts,
and then mount the back plate to the the engine stand. 
I might do this for an extra measure of safety -- it
definitely would spread the load better across more
bolts.

Thanks for all the feedback on this.  It is a big chunk
of iron for such a small car.

doug




"Mullen, Tim" wrote:
> 

> Those bolts/holes sound kind of small.  Aren't there any
> larger holes?  How about the holes for the starter?  Are
> the holes that you are using meant for mounting dirt
> shields instead of the actual transmission?  I would
> expect that the bolts should 3/8 to 1/2 inch diameter
>  bolts (not head size) and should screw into the block
> at least an inch, if not all the way thru on the out
> side edges...
> 
> One problem mounting engines to stands is often finding
> bolts long enough to reach thru the arms (especially
> for metric bolts), another is to get enough spacing
> between the engine stand and the block to mount the
> flywheel.  For my Elan's engine, I had to make
> adapters - 2 x 3 inch rectangular tubing cut into
> about 2 inch slices.  A hole drilled into each end.
> One end bolts to the engine with short bolts, the
> other end to the arms.
> 
> Tim Mullen

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