Eric-
In my experience, the thinset (not quikset) mortar will smooth all moderate
irregularities easily, and the large ones can be smoothed also if you put a
thick enough mortar layer down and use a LONG level. The tiles can easily
bridge expansion joints, but it might be safer to cut the tiles there and
butt them together. Then use colored (black or white) grout to render the
cut also invisible.
Rather than black and white, I am planning a charcoal and gray treatment for
my soon to be started new shop.
Here are some reference from the site of the TV show Hometime:
http://www.hometime.com/store2/tilebooks.htm (books)
http://www.hometime.com/store2/v_bath.htm (video in middle of page)
http://www2.hometime.com/Admin/shopsite/v_4104.htm
http://www.hometime.com/projects/howto/tile/pc2ct03.htm (a little how-to
article)
http://www.hometime.com/projects/ktchbath.htm (index of related articles.
Mark V.S.
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Murray [mailto:ericm@lne.com]
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 6:11 PM
To: VanScoter, JMark
Cc: rex@txol.net; shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: OT: Pergo flooring or alternatives?
On Mon, Jul 09, 2001 at 05:49:22PM -0500, jmark.vanscoter@amd.com wrote:
>
> Rex-
>
> Might I suggest you consider ceramic tile over your slab? In my opinion,
it
> is more forgiving in its installation, is a "real" product (not a mere
> photograph), it is not harmed by humidity or water, will last forever, and
> also cost less per square foot. You can install ceramic tile or Saltillo
> tile for as little as under $2.00 per square foot. And that price includes
> the tile, quickset mortar and the grout.
How level does the concrete have to be for those spiffy
black-and-white checkerboard garage/shop floors? What do you
do on expansion joints? Tile over them?
Eric
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