I went through the exercise of looking a router tables over the past
several months, and decided to build my own. I simply cut a 24x24 square
out of 3/4 MDF, drilled the screw holes for the router base, and plunged my
largest bit through a pilot hole -- this way I avoid the 'flex' associated
with a plate as well as the 'catch' you encounter when sawdust gets between
the plate and the table making them unequal height.. I then "finished" the
plunge with a 45 degree chamfer bit. To save space (my "shop" is a 1 car
garage in my townhouse) I wanted the table to be an extension to my table
saw , so I simply framed an extension which bolts into the table (in your
case, clamps to your bench) -- the MDF fits (and screws into) this frame.
When I switch from wood working projects to engine work, the table saw (now
20" longer than it originally was) gets covered with a sheet of plywood and
becomes a workbench. I made a fence (again out of MDF) that attaches to my
rip fence -- one side of the fence is cut out large enough to fit my
largest slot cutter, the other I took about 1/16" from the feed (input)
face of the fence, and use it with a 3/4" straight cutter as a jointer. . .
The only problem I've found so far is that the fence doesn't have as fine
of adjustment as I'd like. . .to be addressed in the next version.
Sears (here in Canada) wanted about $150 for a router table that bolts to
end of the table saw. I think mine is about twice as big, is certainly
stronger (doesn't flex as much), and cost me about $10. The MDF will
eventually wear out, at which point I turn it over and use the other side.
. .and when that wears out, I'll replace it (I have about 3/4 of the sheet
of MDF left. . .) My main concerns with the small bench top router tables
were the size (can I expect to control a 8' board on the table) and the
weight (stability).
Anyway, food for thought. . .
Steve Dillen
E-Mail: SDILLEN@ca.ibm.com
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