>Before the summer fades, I need to get some heat figured out for my shop.
>Assuming I go with natural gas, I will need to run a gas line from the
>to the garage. The buildings are 12.5 feet apart. There is a full
>concrete-block basement under the house. The garage is built on a slab.
>The garage builder has provided me with a hole in the slab under the singe
>course of concrete block and a matching hole in the treated-lumber sill
>plate which sits atop the concrete block.
>I assume I must dig a trench, punch a hole through the basement wall, and
>run a line underground to the slab, and thence up into the insulated wall.
>The line would leave the wall to go to a direct-vent (both combustion air
>and exhaust go through the wall to the outside) heater hanging from the
>ceiling. I understand that the powers-that-be don't want a floor-level gas
>heater in a garage.
>What material should I use for the gas line? I don't want it to rot or
>or break, obviously.
Many of you gave me conflicting advice, often based on local rules. Here is
what I have found is the answer according to our rules here in Saint Paul.
I ordered the permit today ($42).
Phil Ethier permit to install Empire model DV-35-SG heater.
use roll copper type K (thicker) or type L (thinner)
bury at least 12 inches deep.
put a (plastic) sleeve though the block so there is no rubbing abrasion.
expanding foam is OK.
tubing must leave house above grade, then dive into ground. idea is that
leaking gas may
follow outside of pipe and we don't want it to follow into basement.
Inspector said that
going up through slab on garage end is OK since the entire buried run is
only 12.5 feet.
be sure to seal area up well.
burner must be at least 18 inches from floor.
any soldering used must be silver solder. silver solder is OK underground.
mechanical fittings must be flare fittings. NO compression fittings.
owner must rig up a 25-PSI air test. higher pressure is OK. this tubing
will take more
pressure than my home compressor will put out, so a regulator is not
must see pressure test.
What about the extra soft-copper gaskets for flare fittings?
Approved? Not approved? Required?
More details are needed on the pressure test. Must the entire installation
be done? This
implies that a port for the pressure test be installed and left in the
installation. The cap
put on this port after the test could therefore not be pressure-tested.
Burner must be at least 18 inches from the floor. In this case, the burner
is isolated from
the inside air. Is the 18 inches to be measured from the bottom of the
burner enclosure or
the bottom of the entire unit?
Specifications call for distances from "combustion". Is standard sheetrock
interior latex considered "non-combustible", or is some other material
Well, you get the idea. I intend to run continuous line underground. I
know how to silver solder, or at least I used to, but I don't want to be
bothered. I will do all the joints as flares. I have a flaring tool and I
have made copper flares before.
Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA
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