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Re: Drill Press

To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: Drill Press
From: Roger Korn <rkorn@europa.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 11:18:35 -0800 (PST)
At 06:16 PM 12/24/96 -0800, Bob Bachman wrote:

>snip<...

>I'm curious why you don't want a taper attached chuck. Actually, my 
>choice is a spindle with a #2 Morse internal taper. This allows you to
>change chucks easily, use taper shank tools and taper collet tool
>holders.
>
>Bob Bachman
>
>
The problem with taper chucks is safety. I am primarily a woodworker and
there are two situations that require some sort of positive attachment of
chuck to quill:
1. Mortising attachments with a hollow, square chisel. The bit inside the chisel
can jam up and cause the chuck to come off the quill on the upstroke.

2. The really dangerous one: using an unbalanced fly cutter (circle cutter). The
asymetrical forces caused by cutting on one side of the circle are ideal for
unseating the chuck from the quill taper. When this happens, you have about
two pounds of chuck + flycutter zipping across the shop, hopefully missing
your fingers, body, and other vulnerable objects.

The ideal situation is many, if not most of the modern drill press chucks
that can provide a screw-on collar that locks to matching threads on the
quill, above the taper. This provides the ideal situation. Unfortunately, my
1936 Delta has no way of substituting a modern quill and chuck for the
original, so I'm gonna have to ingratiate myself with my machinist buddy to
get one made. It'll probably cost me an oak printer stand, but I've had
accident #2, see above, occur twice and I'm losing my courage with advancing
age.

Roger, newly sober and counting my blessings along with my fingers


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