My junk Email is getting a little out of hand but the delete key works well.
I got an advertisement from JC Penney today. It has what looks to be a
purple TF from the rear with a little girl laying in the bed with a bed in
it.
"Transition into sprint with our great new looks"
Claude
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim House" <jhouse@ccsolution.com>
To: "'Old Trucks List'" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 7:07 AM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Valve jobs, machine shops, etc
> Tim,
> I have a 46 with the 216 and had problems with overheating. I took it to
> the machine shop that EVERYONE in this area recommended. They pulled the
> head and magnaflux it. Along with the large crack they saw there were
many
> smaller cracks. They had a OEM head in the barn across the road and
rebuilt
> it with my parts and a new valve. Totally cleaned the engine and
repainted
> it. The total cost was $787.28. The new head was $100.00. I know this
was
> on the high side but they did some other work - hardened seats, new
springs
> etc...
>
> Good Luck,
> Jim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of J Forbes
> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 11:05 PM
> To: Old Trucks List
> Subject: [oletrucks] Valve jobs, machine shops, etc
>
>
> Tim--
>
> The suggestion to do a compression check is a good
> one...if two adjacent cylinders are not working
> properly, the head gasket could be blown between
> them.
>
> Or, there could be other problems...the list of
> possibilities is almost endless!
>
> If you are going to take the head to a machine shop,
> be prepared to spend some $$$ to get it done right,
> and have all the work done that probably should be
> done. I recently started working at a machine shop
> part time, our labor rate is $55 an hour. Figure
> about a hundred bucks absolute minimum just to take
> it apart, clean it, perform a basic valve job, and
> reassemble. However, hardly any heads need only
> that...usually the valve guides are worn out (we
> usually install bronze inserts), and you would
> probably be wise to have hardened exhuast seats
> installed if it does not have seat inserts already.
> You may need to buy some new valves, or possibly
> have the stems ground. It will almost certainly
> need to be milled flat again. There may be cracks,
> as these heads are notorious for cracking...so
> you'll want to have it magnaflux inspected, and if
> it has cracks, they can often be welded, but it
> depends where they are. The valve springs may be
> worn out, and need replacing, or at least be shimmed
> to bring the seat pressure back to specification.
>
> In other words, you could easily spend $400 (or
> more!) getting the head worked on. I don't mean to
> scare you, I just want to prepare you for what could
> be a shocker.
>
> If you hardly use your old truck, you could probably
> get away with just doing the minimum repairs
> necessary to get it running right again. You'll
> have to make that decision yourself, though! If you
> don't fix it now, you'll probably have a chance
> again in a year or to to do it right, when it fails
> again. Then again, in the old days, folks didn't
> spend much on machine work, and their trucks usually
> worked OK, though not perfectly.
>
> To find a good shop, you need to ask around! If you
> ask enough people, you'll hear horror stories about
> *every* shop in town. The thing to do is find the
> shop(s) that you know folks have been happy with the
> work done, the time it took to complete the work,
> and that the price was fair (not necessarily cheap,
> but not a rip-off). We in computerland can't help
> you much with info about your local shops, you'll
> have to talk to local people for that.
>
> Jim F
> 59s in AZ
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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