Classic case of flat battery or bad connections in the cranking circuit, or
possibly a faulty starter. Measuring the battery voltage right on the
battery posts *while this is happening*. A good battery will show very
little deviation from 12.5v, which proves it to the connections or starter.
If the battery voltage drops then it is the battery. Of course it could be
a combination of faults. My V8 starter started (ho ho) doing this and at
first I thought it was bad connections on the solenoid wire, as cleaning
this up seemed to fix it. But only for a while, then it started doing it
again as the solenoid deteriorated further. When you *can* get it cranking
again without the clicking connect the meter between the battery 12v post
and the solenoid battery cable stud, crank with the coil disconnected, and
note the volt-drop. Then connect the meter between the battery ground post
and the starter body and do the same. And between the battery posts with
the link cable attached if you have twin 6v batteries. Ideally you should
only see about 0.2 or 0.3v lost in the cables and connections. If it's
getting near 1v it is worth investigating further and cleaning connections.
I have seen 3v lost, it still cranked, but was a pig to start as the coil
voltage was so low.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> Patient is a 66 MGB with 4-synchro trans and late model starter. Symptom
> is
> (with key in starting position) series of rapid clicks from under the
> bonnet, but no turnover.
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