I don't know whether I would ever have tired springs re-arched, they wear
notches in each other and lose temper as well as arch. Beware replacement
springs, many seem to be either too arched or too heavy even when they claim
to be to OE specs, you have to get a couple of burly mates sitting on the
back before you can get the shackles and rebound straps engaged, and the
back sticks right up in the air anyway. Ride height as measured between the
centre of the hub and the bottom of the chrome strip is the usual way of
determining if they are tired or not, you can find measurement from many
cars at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_suspensionframe.htm and clicking on
'Ride Height'. From my cars the chrome bumper roadster springs are almost
flat even from new, as I found when shelling out for a new pair thinking my
old ones were knackered. The factory V8 springs do have more of an arch,
they have a heavier load rating than even normal rubber bumper GT springs.
My V8 had done some 180k, 65k of that myself, I know the PO didn't change
them either, so they may be original.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: "." <packrat3@visi.net>
To: <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2004 3:29 PM
Subject: rear springs
> would like to hear thoughts about the condition of rear leaf springs
> for use on a conversion to be used just for highway driving(as opposed
> to racing/rallys). are there any ways to tell the condition of wear on
> a set of springs(assuming that visually they look pretty normal)?.
> would you assume that a car with a hundred thousand or so miles on it
> still had viable springs? at what stage/indication would you decide to
> have springs re-arced?
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