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Re: Tuning help?

To: "T. S. White" <tswrace@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Tuning help?
From: "James J." <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 02:12:46 -0500
Cc: mgb-v8 <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
In-reply-to: <3FF8A999.BA5B0082@pacbell.net>
References: <3FF8A999.BA5B0082@pacbell.net>
Reply-to: "James J." <m1garand@speakeasy.net>
Sender: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net
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What temp. are you reading with your laser thermometer on the headers. I have one of those (they are cool!!!) but my model only goes up to 500Deg F, and according to my welding manuals, steel won't glow cherry red until ~1200 Deg. F. (Dull red at ~900Deg F.) Combustion gasses are above that (~1600Deg F???), but at idle, the headders should equalize at a lower temp. Engines on dyno stands often have the headers glow, but they are being pushed to the max.
I suspect that you are running extremely lean, which can also cause a block or head to crack due to all the heat! Can you borrow another carb, or have a mechanic look at it? Is your fuel pump working up to spec? What is your coolant temp at idle? How hot are your heads (in addition to the headers?)
James J.

T. S. White wrote:

I have my 302 Ford TR3A rebuilt and running. It has been out for a
couple of test drives. I have a couple of problems with it that I need
help with.

On a test drive a couple of months ago the block huggers got too hot and
set the motor mount on fire. I have repaired and restored the damage
and switched back to my custom headers. They give the motor mount more
clearance and have more area to disapate the heat.

However, at idle, before the electric fan comes on, the headers get
cherry red hot. I don't think they should do this and I am very gun shy
after the fire. This engine is a 289 bored and stroked to 306. It is
ported and polished with large valves and a 280 degree .45 inch lift
cam. I have a 570 CFM Holley Street Avenger on it. I have tuned the
carb to the lowest header temperatures I can get using a lazer temp
gauge. The theory I am using is that the most efficient combustion
ratio will produce the lowest temperatures. I am running a pair of 56
primary jets and 45 power valve. Any movement either way on the jets
produces more header temp. An increase to a 55 in the power valve
increases header temp.
Any suggestions on why the headers still get cherry red at idle.

I also have a new Center Force II clutch in it with a Howe HTOB. The
clutch slips when I step down on the throttle. I measured the distance
for the HTOB with the engine out of the car and in the car and got the
same measurements. I set the HTOB up with a little clearance instead of
preloading it per discussions with tech at Howe. Any ideas would be
appreciated.

Thanks.
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