> If this is interesting to the list, I will follow up later with the
> install part. Let me know if this is a waste of bandwidth, as I will
> only bore you once, that way.
You're much to modest. Boring? Not. I'm keeping this one. Keep'em coming.
Larry Hoy
==================
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Jim Stuart
> Sent: Sunday, November 08, 1998 7:54 PM
> To: MGV8 list
> Subject: 4.2 L conversion
>
>
>
> For those that may be interested, an update on the project. Briefly, I
> have a 74-1/2 GT, converted to CB & lowered, with a 215 Buick & T-5 with
> about 32,000 miles on it. The engine developed a bad case of blow-by, &
> I needed to pull it & take it back to the rebuilder to be put right. At
> some point in trying to figure out the best way to do this, & not be
> without the car for a long period of time, I bought a 4.2L Rover short
> block with heads with about 50 miles on it, from Woody @ the Wedge shop.
> I decided to finish the 4.2, put it in the car, & have the other engine
> repaired without time constraints.
>
> The new engine has been complete for several months now, & I finally got
> a window to start the swap process. This weekend was time to pull the
> old engine. Got a late start on Sat., didn't start turning wrenches
> untill about noon.
>
> When I swapped engines in the V8 roadster a few years ago, I figured out
> a neat way to do it, but didn't know if I could repeat, since this car
> has a larger T-5 trans in place of the Roadster's T-50. Decided to try,
> & it worked out just fine.
>
> Since both cars have A/C, the idea was to do the swap without removing
> the radiator or A/C condenser. What I did:
>
> Remove the driveshaft, shifter, rear tranny crossmember. Unhook
> speedo, reverse light wires. Remove the lower tranny mounting bolts,
> replacing them with a set from the first swap, that had the heads cut
> off, & slots cut for a screwdriver. Drain the hydraulic throwout
> bearing, remove the clips holding the Airquip lines. Put a jack under
> the tranny, remove the upper bolts. The weight is now on the lower
> headless bolts, not the input shaft, as I work the tranny clear of the
> bellhousing, supported, precariously, on the floor jack. Wish I had
> thought of a different saddle for the jack. 20/20 hindsight. Worked the
> tranny back so the tailshaft was supported by the fixed chassies cross
> brace, put a jackstand under the tranny. Stopped for coffee & a cig.
>
> Up on top, I already had all the hoses off, carb off, lifting plate on,
> wires undone, etc. Back underneath, I removed all the bellhousing bolts,
> but could not get the bellhousing to drop out, so I just left it in the
> tunnel. Time to call it a day.
>
> Sun AM, 9:00, I finally got started again. Unbolted the A/C compressor &
> bracket, layed them on the fender on top of a fender cover, used a
> bungee cord to keep it from moving around. Removed the alternator, then
> all the header bolts, bungeed the haeders out of the way, did not remove
> them. Removed the hood supports (gas props from the drunken Scot), more
> bungee cords to hold the hood (bonnet, if you are British) as upright as
> possible, hooking the other end to the hatch opening. Removed the
> electric fan, 3" gained in wiggle room, put a piece of 1/4" plywood in
> front of the radiator, just in case. Unbolted the ears of the rubber
> mounts from the engine adapter-mount plate.
>
> Hooked up the engine hoist, lifted that sucker right out, including the
> clutch & pressure plate. 2:30 PM, done.No damage, didn't even come close
> to the plywood. Had I taken the clutch & pressure plate off before
> pulling the engine, I would not have had to remove the fan- toss-up.
>
> Could have been done in 1 day, abit a long one, if you want to bust-ass,
> or had some help. As it was, I had no deadline, saw no point in working
> that hard.
>
> It is somewhat of a toss-up, doing the removal this way, as opposed to
> pulling the engine/tranny as a unit. This way, the grill, radiator, A/C
> condensor, other electric fan (to run when the A/C is on), all stayed in
> place. You do not have to re-set the car on the stands to drop the
> front, elevate the rear. The trans does not have to be drained. The
> hydraulic throwout bearing does not have to be unhooked, & in
> retrospect, did not have to be drained.
>
> If you pull the whole as a unit, seperation of the tranny, bellhousing
> is easier. No difference in the clutch, as it came out with the engine.
>
> Next week, clean & re-paint the engine bay, only have 1 day to work on
> cars, Sat devoted to demonstrating to the Club how to replace the
> spacers in a B rear, to remove the dreaded clunk.
>
> If this is interesting to the list, I will follow up later with the
> install part. Let me know if this is a waste of bandwidth, as I will
> only bore you once, that way.
>
> Jim Stuart
> 2 V8's, no dollars or sense, somewhat tired.
>
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