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Folks,
There has been a bit of advice flowing on this subject. Whilst I am no
expert, I have been successful in getting my P-type to stop with cable
brakes. Perhaps some of you may be interested in my experiences.
I guess the ultimate is Hydraulic brakes. In this regard there are new
twin leading shoe brakes made in UK for 12" replacement & they have
Aluminium backing plates. Cost Pounds Sterling 2500.00.
But I have always wanted to maintain the correct look on my cars (well,
until now) and I reckoned that if MG could achieve the braking results
quoted in magazines of the time, I felt I should be able to achieve the
same thing & maintain the cable brakes.
First, all mechanical components must be in top order. Basic, but vital.
There is only very marginal travel on the brake cable at the cam lever and
you cannot afford to lose any of this travel distance.
I contacted Bendix who advised me that the only material manufactured
these days had a maximum operating temperature of 150 degrees centigrade.
Big problem as my brakes did get extremely hot.
So, via a good friend in USA, I arranged that he had his set of P-type
shoes bonded with carbon kevlar. I went on a trip (from Australia) and
swapped brake shoes with him. I then built a machine with an MG centre
hub & a steel disk as the backing plate with the correct mounting for the
shoes & actuating cam. Thus it is possible to grind the linings on a
linishing machine belt in the exact profile of the way they are fitted on
the car. Hey presto, the linings came in contact with the brake drums on
ALL of their surface.
I think this is a superior method to having them ground at a brake place
or using the lathe.
Next I reasoned that we could do with extra pressure. So the simple thing
was to reduce the size of the brake actuating cam to a minimum. This
increases the leverage a really good percentage. Obviously this involves
adjusting the brakes more often than with the larger cam. It certainly
assists with the problem.
Finally, I reasoned that a larger surface area on the brake pedal would
exert more pressure. So I had made up a bolt on larger pedal. This was
done so as I did not ruin any original part. This made a huge difference.
So, in summary there are three steps (assuming that all mechanical
operations are perfect) :-
1) Use carbon kevlar linings
2)Reduce the diameter of the brake lever cam to a minimum
3)Increase the size of the foot pedal
Carbon Kevlar is available from Portfield Enterprises Ltd. Costa Mesa, CA
USA. Carbon Kevlar works very well from cold and beautifully when a
little warmer. I certainly will be using it on my new race car.
Wheels also become an issue once you get to this point.
Perhaps some one would forward this onto the chap who originally raised
the issue. Just may be, it will assist him.
Regards to all
Pip
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<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Folks,</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">There has been a bit of advice flowing on
this subject. Whilst I am no expert, I have been successful in getting my
P-type to stop with cable brakes. Perhaps some of you may be interested in my
experiences.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I guess the ultimate is Hydraulic brakes.
In this regard there are new twin leading shoe brakes made in UK for
12" replacement & they have Aluminium backing plates. Cost
Pounds Sterling 2500.00.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">But I have always wanted to maintain the
correct look on my cars (well, until now) and I reckoned that if MG could
achieve the braking results quoted in magazines of the time, I felt I should be
able to achieve the same thing & maintain the cable brakes.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">First, all mechanical components must be in
top order. Basic, but vital. There is only very marginal travel on
the brake cable at the cam lever and you cannot afford to lose any of this
travel distance.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I contacted Bendix who advised me that the
only material manufactured these days had a maximum operating temperature of
150 degrees centigrade. Big problem as my brakes did get extremely
hot.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">So, via a good friend in USA, I arranged
that he had his set of P-type shoes bonded with carbon kevlar. I went on
a trip (from Australia) and swapped brake shoes with him. I then built a
machine with an MG centre hub & a steel disk as the backing plate with the
correct mounting for the shoes & actuating cam. Thus it is possible to
grind the linings on a linishing machine belt in the exact profile of the way
they are fitted on the car. Hey presto, the linings came in contact with the
brake drums on ALL of their surface.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I think this is a superior method to having
them ground at a brake place or using the lathe.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Next I reasoned that we could do with extra
pressure. So the simple thing was to reduce the size of the brake
actuating cam to a minimum. This increases the leverage a really good
percentage. Obviously this involves adjusting the brakes more often than with
the larger cam. It certainly assists with the problem.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Finally, I reasoned that a larger surface
area on the brake pedal would exert more pressure. So I had made up a
bolt on larger pedal. This was done so as I did not ruin any original
part. This made a huge difference.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">So, in summary there are three steps
(assuming that all mechanical operations are perfect) :-</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">1) Use carbon kevlar linings</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">2)Reduce the diameter of the brake lever cam
to a minimum</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">3)Increase the size of the foot pedal</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Carbon Kevlar is available from Portfield
Enterprises Ltd. Costa Mesa, CA USA. Carbon Kevlar works very well from
cold and beautifully when a little warmer. I certainly will be using it
on my new race car.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Wheels also become an issue once you get to
this point.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Perhaps some one would forward this onto the
chap who originally raised the issue. Just may be, it will assist
him.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Regards to all</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Pip</font>
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