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Thanks Bob--
It is somewhat discouraging that what should be easy--sourcing a good and
dependable water pump--seems like such a daunting task. As I mentioned I'd
like to replace my present pump--I believe the "uprated" version which I
installed in situ several years back and is working just fine--with a new,
dependable one with the hope that it will give several years of good
service, and while that should not be a big ask I don't think I should have
the feeling that I am merely changing cabins on the Titanic.
All that said, most feedback seems to point to the AH Spares unit and
that's probably where I'll go unless someone turns my head around. You
mention that the threads are metric and I assume you mean the one for the
shutoff valve. I don't have one of those--never had--and since it is
pretty expensive and I can simply shut off flow via the tap on the right
side of the engine I think I'll stay without one.
As to the hole on top of the pump--isn't that supposed to be a
weephole designed to be left unplugged to serve as a warning that water is
getting past the seal in the engine--or am I misunderstanding what you are
referring to ?
Best--Michael
On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at 11:31=E2=80=AFAM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>=
wrote:
> I bought the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the AHSpares offering
> appears to be an unbranded version, or maybe a copy). The impeller appear=
s
> to be somewhat more effective design, and the gap between the impeller an=
d
> the pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM so would likely flow better.
> The threads on it won't fit the OEM valve--I think everything's metric on
> it--and it comes with a barbed nipple. As previously reported, the hole o=
n
> the top of the pump--anyone know what that's for?--comes with a plug that
> doesn't plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and ruined a pump in =
my
> attempts. I finally found a way, and may use it to seal an O/D drain plug
> if it continues to leak. It works fine, but I haven't had the car out on =
a
> hot day. I don't think coolant flow is the cause of overheating, esp. at
> idle; it's mainly due to lack of airflow through the engine bay, lack of =
a
> shroud, etc.
>
> I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from Tom Monaco but
> sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and and I didn't install it; I
> returned it, and Tom had to jump through hoops to get a refund but he cam=
e
> through. Tom knows a rebuilder in Oregon who rebuilt an OEM pump for me,
> but it's currently riding in the boot. I don't have the invoice, but Tom
> would tell you if you gave him a call.
>
> Bob
>
> On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
>
> When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original pump to a very good
> machinist who fashioned a seal out of delrin and he figured out the corre=
ct
> spring pressure using an original NOS part and the pump works perfect to
> date.
>
> AH Spares professes that they have the best pump. Many other aftermarket
> makers, including County, make junk. Using the original parts can work if
> you have someone who understands pumps.The proper spring pressure is
> critical to prevent leaks and the seal being made out of delrin resists
> wear from vibration. This machinist worked for an agricultural supply
> company. Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "Michael Oritt" <michael.oritt@gmail.com> <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
> To: "Austin Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations
> The engine in my 100 will be out soon and I'd like to replace the
> present water pump PROVIDED there has been a scientific breakthrough in t=
he
> manufacturing of this often problematic piece of equipment.
>
> Is anyone making or reconditioning pumps that offer a real improvement of
> what is generally offered to us?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Thank=
s Bob--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div=
><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">It is somewhat discou=
raging that what should be easy--sourcing a good and dependable water pump-=
-seems like such a daunting task.=C2=A0 As I mentioned I'd like to repl=
ace my present pump--I believe=C2=A0the "uprated" version which I=
installed in situ several years back and is working just fine--with a new,=
dependable one with the hope that it will give several years of good servi=
ce, and while that should not be a big ask I don't think=C2=A0I should =
have the feeling that I am merely changing cabins on the Titanic.</div><div=
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">All that said, most feedback seems to =
point to the AH Spares unit and that's probably where I'll go unles=
s someone turns my head around.=C2=A0 You mention that the threads are metr=
ic and I assume you mean the one for the shutoff=C2=A0valve.=C2=A0 I don=
9;t have one of those--never had--and since it is pretty expensive and I ca=
n simply=C2=A0shut off flow via the tap on the right side of the engine I t=
hink I'll stay without one.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"=
color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333f=
f">As to the hole on top of=C2=A0the pump--isn't that supposed to be a =
weephole=C2=A0designed to be left unplugged to serve as a warning that wate=
r is getting past the seal in the engine--or am I misunderstanding=C2=A0wha=
t you are referring to=C2=A0?</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"co=
lor:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"=
>Best--Michael</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><b=
r></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div=
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmai=
l_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at 11:3=
1=E2=80=AFAM Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspide=
ll@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" st=
yle=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padd=
ing-left:1ex"><u></u>
=20
=20
=20
<div>
I bought the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the AHSpares
offering appears to be an unbranded version, or maybe a copy). The
impeller appears to be somewhat more effective design, and the gap
between the impeller and the pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM
so would likely flow better. The threads on it won't fit the OEM
valve--I think everything's metric on it--and it comes with a barbe=
d
nipple. As previously reported, the hole on the top of the
pump--anyone know what that's for?--comes with a plug that doesn=
9;t
plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and ruined a pump in my
attempts. I finally found a way, and may use it to seal an O/D drain
plug if it continues to leak. It works fine, but I haven't had the
car out on a hot day. I don't think coolant flow is the cause of
overheating, esp. at idle; it's mainly due to lack of airflow
through the engine bay, lack of a shroud, etc.<br>
<br>
I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from Tom
Monaco but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and and I didn't
install it; I returned it, and Tom had to jump through hoops to get
a refund but he came through. Tom knows a rebuilder in Oregon who
rebuilt an OEM pump for me, but it's currently riding in the boot. =
I
don't have the invoice, but Tom would tell you if you gave him a
call.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div>On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
<div>When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original pump to a
very good machinist who fashioned a seal out of delrin and he
figured out the correct spring pressure using an original NOS
part and the pump works perfect to date.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>AH Spares professes that they have the best pump. Many other
aftermarket makers, including County, make junk. Using the
original parts can work if you have someone who understands
pumps.The proper spring pressure is critical to prevent leaks
and the seal being made out of delrin resists wear from
vibration. This machinist worked for an agricultural supply
company. Hank<br>
-------------------- <br>
<br>
From: "Michael Oritt" <a href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gma=
il.com" target=3D"_blank"><michael.oritt@gmail.com></a> <br>
To: "Austin Healey" <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.=
net" target=3D"_blank"><healeys@autox.team.net></a> <br>
Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM <br>
Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations </div>
<div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">The eng=
ine in
my 100 will be out soon and I'd like to replace the
present=C2=A0water pump PROVIDED there has been a scientific
breakthrough in the manufacturing of this often problematic
piece of equipment.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">=C2=A0<=
/div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Is anyo=
ne
making or reconditioning pumps that offer=C2=A0a real improvement
of what is generally offered to us?</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">=C2=A0<=
/div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--M=
ichael
Oritt</div>
</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
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</blockquote></div>
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