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Thanks for all the replies and the information. I can confirm the olive is
tight and the lower doesn't rotate but the trafficator can rotate freely
with no resistance. It looks like the problem is inside the
steering column. I will remove the trafficator and lower stator tube and
report back.
Do I need to be prepared for the steering box fluid to leak out when the
lower stator is removed?
Harold
On Mon, Feb 13, 2023 at 3:20 AM Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> The short stator tube, connected to the control head, has three dimples
> that ride in a slot in the long stator tube. The short stator tube fits
> over the long stator tube. Looks to me that the slot was cut with a
> slitting saw leaving a knife edge corners where the cracks originate.
> I've made some long stator tubes, using an end mill to put a round end
> to the slot as Bob suggests.
>
> Hank, the fishing line that you use - line used to catch fish or to fish
> wires through walls (fish tape)? If the former, how do you get the line
> feed through the tube? I would tie it to the harness and pull it
> through when you remove the harness. Or using some bailing wire to feed
> it through.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>
> On 2/12/23 20:39, Bob Spidell wrote:
> > You have to pull the trafficator wiring harness up through the stator
> > regardless to get the trafficator out and the wheel off. Once you've
> > done that, I can't think of an easy way to grab the stator, so you're
> > better off just pulling the stator out at the box (i.e. 'by the book').
> >
> > Two things cause the trafficator to rotate with the wheel: the stator
> > isn't secured by the olive and nut at the box end, or one or both of
> > the sections--long lower and short upper--are damaged somehow. They
> > aren't technically connected, the short upper part slides inside the
> > lower and has a dimple that fits in a slot in the lower. The slot is
> > cut square and it often cracks at the end (it should be radiused IMO).
> >
> > When you get everything back together, presumably with a new stator,
> > make sure there's a small gap--20 thou or so--between the trafficator
> > and the hub so the hub doesn't drag the trafficator when you turn.
> > Check first to see that it's not just a loose olive and nut; if so, it
> > will likely leak quite a bit, but it's an easy fix.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > On 2/12/2023 2:49 PM, Harold Manifold wrote:
> >> Hello,
> >>
> >> I have started to road test my car and discovered the trafficator
> >> rotates with the steering wheel. The car has adjustable steering and
> >> further investigation strongly indicates the upper and lower stator
> >> tubes are not connecting inside the steering column.
> >>
> >> Question - Can the lower stator tube be removed through the steering
> >> wheel end of the steering column?
> >>
> >> Any tips and suggestions on how to do this job are appreciated.
> >>
> >> Thanks... Harold
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
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> >
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks for all the replies=C2=A0and the information. I can=
confirm the olive is tight and the lower doesn't rotate but the traffi=
cator can rotate freely with no resistance. It looks like the problem is in=
side the steering=C2=A0column. I will remove the trafficator and lower stat=
or tube and report back.<div><br></div><div>Do I need to be prepared for th=
e steering box fluid to leak out when the lower stator is removed?</div><di=
v><br></div><div>Harold</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=
=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 13, 2023 at 3:20 AM Bob Haskell &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net";>rchaskell@earthlink.net</a>&g=
t; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0p=
x 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">The sh=
ort stator tube, connected to the control head, has three dimples <br>
that ride in a slot in the long stator tube.=C2=A0 The short stator tube fi=
ts <br>
over the long stator tube.=C2=A0 Looks to me that the slot was cut with a <=
br>
slitting saw leaving a knife edge corners where the cracks originate.=C2=A0=
<br>
I've made some long stator tubes, using an end mill to put a round end =
<br>
to the slot as Bob suggests.<br>
<br>
Hank, the fishing line that you use - line used to catch fish or to fish <b=
r>
wires through walls (fish tape)?=C2=A0 If the former, how do you get the li=
ne <br>
feed through the tube?=C2=A0 I would tie it to the harness and pull it <br>
through when you remove the harness.=C2=A0 Or using some bailing wire to fe=
ed <br>
it through.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
Bob Haskell<br>
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar<br>
<br>
On 2/12/23 20:39, Bob Spidell wrote:<br>
> You have to pull the trafficator wiring harness up through the stator =
<br>
> regardless to get the trafficator out and the wheel off. Once you'=
ve <br>
> done that, I can't think of an easy way to grab the stator, so you=
're <br>
> better off just pulling the stator out at the box (i.e. 'by the bo=
ok').<br>
><br>
> Two things cause the trafficator to rotate with the wheel: the stator =
<br>
> isn't secured by the olive and nut at the box end, or one or both =
of <br>
> the sections--long lower and short upper--are damaged somehow. They <b=
r>
> aren't technically connected, the short upper part slides inside t=
he <br>
> lower and has a dimple that fits in a slot in the lower. The slot is <=
br>
> cut square and it often cracks at the end (it should be radiused IMO).=
<br>
><br>
> When you get everything back together, presumably with a new stator, <=
br>
> make sure there's a small gap--20 thou or so--between the traffica=
tor <br>
> and the hub so the hub doesn't drag the trafficator when you turn.=
<br>
> Check first to see that it's not just a loose olive and nut; if so=
, it <br>
> will likely leak quite a bit, but it's an easy fix.<br>
><br>
> Bob<br>
><br>
> On 2/12/2023 2:49 PM, Harold Manifold wrote:<br>
>> Hello,<br>
>><br>
>> I have started to road test my car and discovered the trafficator =
<br>
>> rotates with the steering wheel. The car has adjustable=C2=A0steer=
ing and <br>
>> further investigation strongly indicates the upper and lower stato=
r <br>
>> tubes are not connecting inside the steering column.<br>
>><br>
>> Question - Can the lower stator tube be removed through the steeri=
ng <br>
>> wheel end of the steering column?<br>
>><br>
>> Any tips and suggestions on how to do this job are appreciated.<br=
>
>><br>
>> Thanks... Harold<br>
>><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; rel=3D"no=
referrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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</blockquote></div>
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