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Note Laycock went from steel rings to O-rings on the actuating pistons
on the later cars. Went I overhauled my BJ8's O/D at about 205K miles
the O-rings were in good shape, except for the wear you'd expect on the
cylinder wall side (flat-sided).
On 8/3/2022 9:20 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> I have a question about the "O" ring type of accumulator.
> The way the accumulator works is that when it is fully charged the
> piston moves against the spring until the rings reach the radial holes
> in the wall of the housing which acts to relieve any excess pressure.
> My concern is that at 3 - 400 p.s.i. oil will obviously get behind the
> "O" ring and force the material of the "O" ring into those radial
> holes and then, as the piston moves back over them, a piece of the
> ring will shear off.
> I'm guessing that Laycock-DeNormanville used the complex cast iron
> rings rather than "O" rings because they recognized the possibility of
> this happening.
> I'm sure that tiny pieces of the "O" ring would be found in the filter
> if this was a problem. Anyone found them or noticed damage to their
> accumulator "O" ring upon disassembly?
>
> M
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 3, 2022 at 9:08 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I put one in my BJ8's O/D. It's subjective*--O/Ds seem to work a
> little
> quicker with cold, thick oil than hot oil--but it cuts maybe a
> third off
> engagement time on average. I had the O/D on the bench and
> disassembled,
> and the current one had a scored barrel so, why not? Engagement isn't
> much, if any, harsher than before which, I believe is the reason DMH
> wanted the weaker, smaller spring. If I'd known about it, I might
> have
> bought AHSpares' with an O-ring instead.
>
> * I've never really 'timed' O/D functioning, it would be a bit
> awkward;
> anyone done it? I usually tap the clutch pedal when engaging O/D, and
> give a little throttle when disengaging. I thought mine engaged a
> little
> quicker when I switched to synthetic fluid from engine oil, but in
> all
> cases confirmation bias may be involved.
>
>
>
> On 8/2/2022 8:09 PM, Joseph Costa wrote:
> > Has anyone installed their upgraded overdrive piston? If so, is it
> > worth the trouble ?
> >
> > Joe
> > BN1 #923
> >
>
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Note Laycock went from steel rings to O-rings on the actuating
pistons on the later cars. Went I overhauled my BJ8's O/D at about
205K miles the O-rings were in good shape, except for the wear you'd
expect on the cylinder wall side (flat-sided).<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/3/2022 9:20 AM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAB3i7LLr60MNWornPpzGrv2G0DGYE9paN2uVZu3fcA5o3f39=A@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">I have a
question about the "O" ring type of accumulator.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">The way
the accumulator works is that when it is fully charged the
piston moves against the spring until the rings reach the
radial holes in the wall of the housing which acts to relieve
any excess pressure.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">My
concern is that at 3 - 400 p.s.i. oil will obviously get
behind the "O" ring and force the material of the "O" ring
into those radial holes and then, as the piston moves back
over them, a piece of the ring will shear off.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">I'm
guessing that Laycock-DeNormanville used the complex cast iron
rings rather than "O" rings because they recognized the
possibility of this happening. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">I'm sure
that tiny pieces of the "O" ring would be found in the filter
if this was a problem. Anyone found them or noticed damage to
their accumulator "O" ring upon disassembly?<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Aug 3, 2022 at 9:08 AM
Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">I
put one in my BJ8's O/D. It's subjective*--O/Ds seem to work a
little <br>
quicker with cold, thick oil than hot oil--but it cuts maybe a
third off <br>
engagement time on average. I had the O/D on the bench and
disassembled, <br>
and the current one had a scored barrel so, why not?
Engagement isn't <br>
much, if any, harsher than before which, I believe is the
reason DMH <br>
wanted the weaker, smaller spring. If I'd known about it, I
might have <br>
bought AHSpares' with an O-ring instead.<br>
<br>
* I've never really 'timed' O/D functioning, it would be a bit
awkward; <br>
anyone done it? I usually tap the clutch pedal when engaging
O/D, and <br>
give a little throttle when disengaging. I thought mine
engaged a little <br>
quicker when I switched to synthetic fluid from engine oil,
but in all <br>
cases confirmation bias may be involved.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 8/2/2022 8:09 PM, Joseph Costa wrote:<br>
> Has anyone installed their upgraded overdrive piston? If
so, is it <br>
> worth the trouble ?<br>
><br>
> Joe<br>
> BN1 #923<br>
><br>
<br>
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</blockquote>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset class="moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
<pre class="moz-quote-pre"
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