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The white red wire has an Eyelet to attach=C3=A9 to the original style start=
er solenoid.=20
The single blAck wire attaches to the E terminal on the solenoid. And the ey=
elet with the two black wires attaches to the firewall screw next to the reg=
ulator=20
David Nock
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 19, 2020, at 6:24 AM, john harper <ah100tech@gmail.com> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> Micheal
>=20
> You are correct the black earth wires need to go to the bulkhead on a scre=
w hole nearby. There also need to be a black earth wire to the right-hand te=
rminal on the control box. This should be part of the loom but if not you wi=
ll need to make up a short black wire
>=20
> In reply to your second point, your starter solenoid has Lucar (push on) c=
onnectors so it is not an original. Lucars did not come into use until 100 p=
roductions ceased. To be authentic you will have to find a later solenoid. A=
s a compromise, you could make up a short fully insulated adaptor cable with=
an eye and a short nut and bolt with a Lucar on the other end Then you coul=
d go back to originality with an older starter solenoid if you could find on=
e. I believe that you can just remove the Lucar on the main terminal (on the=
right)
>=20
> Regards
>=20
>> On Sat, 19 Dec 2020 at 12:42, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wr=
ote:
>> The starter solenoid wire has an eyelet because the original Lucas soleno=
id had a threaded terminal with a nut for that connection.
>>=20
>> M
>>=20
>>> On Sat., Dec. 19, 2020, 1:20 a.m. Michael MacLean, <rrengineer.mike@att.=
net> wrote:
>>> Wiring the engine bay in my BN2 now. A little confused. When I wi=
red the Bugeye some 20 years ago I don't seem to remember having any problem=
s matching wiring end terminals with the connections to the components in th=
e engine bay. If you look at the two pictures one is of a straight on shot o=
f the voltage regulator with the cover off. All the connections have been m=
ade except the three black wires that go to the screw on the right. Easy en=
ough to just cut off the eyelet and twist the three wires together, then sho=
ve under the screw. My question is why is there an eyelet connecting these t=
hree wires? The second picture (not real clear) shows another eyelet on the=
end of the white wire with the red tracer. This wire goes to the blade con=
nector at the top of the solenoid. I can see that I have to cut this eyelet=
off also and crimp/solder a female connector for the blade connection (or d=
rill out that hole and put a screw and nut in there for the eyelet), but why=
is there an eyelet on the end of this wire? Did the original solenoid have=
a screw connection for the eyelet. That would not be the case for the thre=
e black wires that connect to the voltage regulator though. Just wanted to a=
sk before I started snipping away here.
>>> Mike MacLean
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>>=20
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arc=
hive
>>>=20
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>=20
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michae=
lsalter@gmail.com
>>>=20
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>=20
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive
>>=20
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>=20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100te=
ch@gmail.com
>>=20
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve
>=20
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>=20
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>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">The white red wire has an Eyelet to attach=C3=
=A9 to the original style starter solenoid. <div><br></div><div>The sin=
gle blAck wire attaches to the E terminal on the solenoid. And the eyelet wi=
th the two black wires attaches to the firewall screw next to the regulator&=
nbsp;<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>David Nock</div><div><br></div>Sent from m=
y iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Dec 19, 2020=
, at 6:24 AM, john harper <ah100tech@gmail.com> wrote:<br><br></blockq=
uote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"l=
tr">Micheal<div><br></div><div>You are correct the black earth wires need to=
go to the bulkhead on a screw hole nearby. There also need to be a black ea=
rth wire to the right-hand terminal on the control box. This should be part o=
f the loom but if not you will need to make up a short black wire</div><div>=
<br></div><div>In reply to your second point, your starter solenoid has Luca=
r (push on) connectors so it is not an original. Lucars did not come in=
to use until 100 productions ceased. To be authentic you wil=
l have to find a later solenoid. As a compromise, you could make up a short f=
ully <b>insulated</b> adaptor cable with an eye and a short nut an=
d bolt with a Lucar on the other end Then you could go back to originality w=
ith an older starter solenoid if you could find one. I believe tha=
t you can just remove the Lucar on the main terminal (on the right)</di=
v><div><br></div><div>Regards</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div=
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, 19 Dec 2020 at 12:42, Michael Salt=
er <<a href=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com";>michaelsalter@gmail.com</a=
>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0=
px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div d=
ir=3D"auto">The starter solenoid wire has an eyelet because the original Luc=
as solenoid had a threaded terminal with a nut for that connection.<div dir=3D=
"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quot=
e"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat., Dec. 19, 2020, 1:20 a.m. M=
ichael MacLean, <<a href=3D"mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net"; rel=3D"norefe=
rrer" target=3D"_blank">rrengineer.mike@att.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blo=
ckquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:=
1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div><div style=3D"font-family:=
"times new roman","new york",times,serif;font-size:16px"=
><div dir=3D"ltr"> Wiring the engine bay in my BN2 n=
ow. A little confused. When I wired the Bugeye some 20 years ago=
I don't seem to remember having any problems matching wiring end terminals w=
ith the connections to the components in the engine bay. If you look a=
t the two pictures one is of a straight on shot of the voltage regulator wit=
h the cover off. All the connections have been made except the three b=
lack wires that go to the screw on the right. Easy enough to just cut o=
ff the eyelet and twist the three wires together, then shove under the screw=
. My question is why is there an eyelet connecting these three wires?&=
nbsp; The second picture (not real clear) shows another eyelet on the end of=
the white wire with the red tracer. This wire goes to the blade conne=
ctor at the top of the solenoid. I can see that I have to cut this eye=
let off also and crimp/solder a female connector for the blade connection (o=
r drill out that hole and put a screw and nut in there for the eyelet), but w=
hy is there an eyelet on the end of this wire? Did the original soleno=
id have a screw connection for the eyelet. That would not be the case f=
or the three black wires that connect to the voltage regulator though. =
Just wanted to ask before I started snipping away here.</div><div dir=3D"lt=
r">Mike MacLean<br></div></div></div>_______________________________________=
________<br>
er noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys"; rel=3D"noreferrer=
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