I had a hard time getting my BJ8's cover to seal; even destroying one
trying.? I finally figured out the top of the head, where the cover
sits, appears to slope off a little on the front/right corner.? Here's
what finally sealed things up for me:
1) glue the gasket to the cover (I use 3M Weatherstrip Adheisve; aka
'yellow snot,' also comes in black)
2) run a thin bead of blue RTV silicone on the head-facing side of the
gasket (yeah, I know it's dangerous, but a thin bead carefully applied
has not caused me any problems)
3) let the cover sit on the head for a few minutes to let the bead of
RTV spread gently
4) snug up the nuts - not too tight lest you deform the cover
John's suggestion is excellent, but I don't have any smooth, flat
surface on which to perform the operations.?? Hmmmm ...
Bob
On 4/7/2018 6:03 AM, John Vrugtman wrote:
> The way I fix this is to adhere the gasket to the cover, then place it
> on a very flat surface with a weight on each nut to simulate when
> installed.? Then go around the edge with a .003 feeler gauge.? Where
> there is no resistance I carefully us a rubber hammer to tap down that
> edge, eventually getting contact all the way around.
> John
>
>
> On 4/7/2018 7:32 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
>>
>> Hello
>>
>> Having a lot of fun trying to stop a leak from the rear of the rocker
>> cover of the BN3.
>>
>> It?s a standard early C-series six-cylinder and pressed steel rocker
>> cover with dome shape nuts.
>>
>> The question is whether the accepted practice is to stick the cork
>> gasket to the rocker cover with no jointing compound between the
>> gasket and cylinder head. OR is the accepted practice to apply
>> jointing compound to both surfaces?
>>
>> Hoo Roo
>>
>> Patrick Quinn
>>
>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>>
>>
>
>
>
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