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Call Tim or Martin at Power Brake in CA 408-292-01305 helpful folks..
Dave
GT6+
On 10/21/2015 2:39 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Bob,
> In my experience the Girling servo units can be very difficult to
> rebuild satisfactorily.
> The symptoms that you describe are however more indicative of air in
> the system than those typical of servo difficulties.
> If the servo is not working properly the typical symptoms are no servo
> action at all or brakes dragging and/or locking on.
> To check the servo action pump the brake pedal several times with the
> engine not running then, with pressure on the brake pedal, start the
> engine and the pedal should drop a little as manifold vacuum is
> established. If the pedal drops the servo is working.
> The other problem is evident when you drive the car.. First the brake
> pedal will become quite "hard" and there will be no "free play" at the
> top of its stroke next the brakes will get very hot and eventually the
> car will stop moving because the brakes are locked on..
> The usual cause of that problem is the failure of the large piston
> within the servo unit to return fully to its rest position when the
> brakes are released. That is where the "thinner sponge" thing comes
> in. The correct solution is to have the inside of the servo "chest"
> re-coated with a special slippery coating. There should be more
> information on that way back in the archives.
> Hope that helps,
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> (4 wheel drum brakes ..no servo)
>
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 20, 2015 at 6:24 PM, R. Cobb <rcobb@earthlink.net
>
> Unit was rebuilt using kit from Moss.
>
> Symptoms, following bleeding hydraulic brake system (no
> differences noted whether car running or not): On first try of
> brakes, nearly no braking, with pedal going almost to floor.
>
> Second try, sometimes a release is felt in the pedal (with an
> associated, slight "pop" sound) with a bit more braking and less
> travel of pedal. By the third try, the pedal travel seems more
> normal, and the braking is improved, though not up to the level
> expected.
>
> The above pattern has been replicated numerous times, with the
> thinking that perhaps if something were binding, it would work-in.
> No such luck.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> I recall that some months ago a contributor mentioned having had
> to install a thinner sponge rubber ring for under the piston
> seal...because of binding(?). Could this be the issue? Would
> this result in the behavior I'm experiencing?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Bob
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>
>
>
> --
> /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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--
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
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Call Tim or Martin at Power Brake in CA 408-292-01305 helpful
folks..<br>
Dave<br>
GT6+<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/21/2015 2:39 PM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAB3i7LK8cse-n7RR8SqyXSwFj3WzE3th4YiJoOmNw_eG592Giw@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Bob,<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">In my experience the Girling
servo units can be very difficult to rebuild satisfactorily. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The symptoms that you describe
are however more indicative of air in the system than those
typical of servo difficulties. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">If the servo is not working
properly the typical symptoms are no servo action at all or
brakes dragging and/or locking on.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">To check the servo action pump
the brake pedal several times with the engine not running
then, with pressure on the brake pedal, start the engine and
the pedal should drop a little as manifold vacuum is
established. If the pedal drops the servo is working.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The other problem is evident
when you drive the car.. First the brake pedal will become
quite "hard" and there will be no "free play" at the top of
its stroke next the brakes will get very hot and eventually
the car will stop moving because the brakes are locked on..<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The usual cause of that problem
is the failure of the large piston within the servo unit to
return fully to its rest position when the brakes are
released. That is where the "thinner sponge" thing comes in.
The correct solution is to have the inside of the servo
"chest" re-coated with a special slippery coating. There
should be more information on that way back in the archives.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hope that helps,<br>
<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174 <br>
(4 wheel drum brakes ..no servo)<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
<br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Oct 20, 2015 at 6:24 PM, R.
Cobb <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:rcobb@earthlink.net";
target="_blank">rcobb@earthlink.net</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Unit was
rebuilt using kit from Moss.<br>
<br>
Symptoms, following bleeding hydraulic brake system (no
differences noted whether car running or not): On first try
of brakes, nearly no braking, with pedal going almost to
floor.<br>
<br>
Second try, sometimes a release is felt in the pedal (with
an associated, slight "pop" sound) with a bit more braking
and less travel of pedal. By the third try, the pedal
travel seems more normal, and the braking is improved,
though not up to the level expected.<br>
<br>
The above pattern has been replicated numerous times, with
the thinking that perhaps if something were binding, it
would work-in. No such luck.<br>
<br>
Any thoughts?<br>
<br>
I recall that some months ago a contributor mentioned having
had to install a thinner sponge rubber ring for under the
piston seal...because of binding(?). Could this be the
issue? Would this result in the behavior I'm experiencing?<br>
<br>
Thanks in advance.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
Support Team.Net <a moz-do-not-send="true"
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<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<br>
<br clear="all">
<br>
-- <br>
<div class="gmail_signature">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div dir="ltr"><i><font size="2"><span style="color:black">If
you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an
electrical problem.</span></font></i><br>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
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<pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
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</blockquote>
<br>
<div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
Dave Porter
Porter Custom Bicycles
2909 Arno St. NE
Albuquerque, NM 87107
505-352-1378
Go HERE: my world <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://www.porterbikes.com/";>www.porterbikes.com/</a>
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