Bert,
Prior to starting up I would fill up the engine to well over the crank
journals with 20W50, some squirts (penetrating) oil containing
Molybdenumdisulfide or Graphite through the plug holes, turn the engine
slowly by hand for a couple of times to get some oil in all bearings,
drain the oil to normal level, turn the engine on the starter, still
without plugs, until you have oil pressure, refit plugs and fire up the
engine and leave running until hot (1-2 hours) and check all systems for
leaks and proper working. Do not do this in the garage as there will be
a massive amount of smoke from the burned oil for a few minutes.
Running in is a matter of opinion. I prefer to run in my engines for
longevity, low loads (never full throttle) and max 2500-3000 rpm
depending on the engines stroke, for the long stroke AH engine I would
choose no more than 2500rpm for about 750mls. After that you can
gradually increase rpm and load. The engine is fully run in after about
5000mls.
Change oil and filter after the first start up, than at 500mls, than at
normal intervals.
Some think this way the engine becomes "lazy". They prefer to break in
the engine at full load and throttle. This may or may not result in a
more responsive engine (which I very much doubt), it will also reduce
the life of the engine.
There is little use to take compression readings until the engine is run in.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL
Op 26-11-2011 22:45, Bert Van Brande schreef:
> I got my 56 100 BN2 about 7 years ago and embarked on a full-on restoration in
> 2006. A restoration of this car was started in the late 80's by the previous
> owner but never finished. Bodywork was poorly done but the engine was
> reportedly rebuild.
> When I got the car I checked the engine and took off the head. I found new
> pistons and just honing marks, so the engine had not run a lot. After
> rebuilding the carbs and distributor and with help from a friend the engine
> started on first try (we were in shock) and ran perfectly. We ran the engine
> a couple times for a couple minutes, fine tuning gaps, carbs and timing. Too
> bad I didn't have compression gauges or a leak down tester so I didn't get a
> reading. There was no oil pressure gauge in the car either.
> Fast forward 6 years, I am close to finishing up the rolling chassis and I
> have a few engine related questions. I am refurbishing a couple parts on the
> engine: new gaskets, a new timing chain, modern seal timing cover,... I
> rebuild the water pump and I am installing a modern stainless flexible oil
> delivery pipe.
> How does the flexible oil pipe fittings seal with the block or pump housing?
> Just with the threads of the couplings? Do I need to use a sealant here?
> Soon enough I hope, I will be running the engine. My current plan is to drop
> the engine/gearbox in the car, start the engine without plugs until I see oil
> pressure on the gauge, then let it run till it's warmed up and get compression
> readings and do a leak down test. Any recommendations regarding startup
> procedure giving the fact that it might not have run in properly?
> I am unsure what pistons and cam I have in the engine currently. The pistons
> have a shallow dish, I din't actually measure the dish and will only be able
> to do so if/when I take the head off again. I can take a photo of the
> underside of the pistons before I put the oil sump back on. Would it be
> possible to identify the pistons based on photos? If so I'll post them
> online.
>
> Bert
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