We put the flex oil pipe in our BN2/100M. I seem to (barely) recall there were
some washers on the (AN-style) fittings; if not, I had no concern the line
wouldn't seal with whatever came with the line (it's the Denis Welch product).
We have excellent oil pressure.
100 pistons are dished, the higher-compression 100M pistons have a wider flat
ring around the edge. Yes, someone can probably tell from photos if the pistons
look correct. If your engine ran well before I'd just go with that until you
have a real reason to dismantle the engine (you will, sooner or later).
Before you start again, I'd put one of the ZDDP additives in the oil. It sounds
like you may not have run enough to bed in the cam and lifters; next time you
start let the engine run at about 2,000RPM for about 15 min. to finish bedding
in the cam.
Bob
--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
----- Original Message -----
I got my 56 100 BN2 about 7 years ago and embarked on a full-on restoration in
2006. A restoration of this car was started in the late 80's by the previous
owner but never finished. Bodywork was poorly done but the engine was
reportedly rebuild.
When I got the car I checked the engine and took off the head. I found new
pistons and just honing marks, so the engine had not run a lot. After
rebuilding the carbs and distributor and with help from a friend the engine
started on first try (we were in shock) and ran perfectly. We ran the engine
a couple times for a couple minutes, fine tuning gaps, carbs and timing. Too
bad I didn't have compression gauges or a leak down tester so I didn't get a
reading. There was no oil pressure gauge in the car either.
Fast forward 6 years, I am close to finishing up the rolling chassis and I
have a few engine related questions. I am refurbishing a couple parts on the
engine: new gaskets, a new timing chain, modern seal timing cover,... I
rebuild the water pump and I am installing a modern stainless flexible oil
delivery pipe.
How does the flexible oil pipe fittings seal with the block or pump housing?
Just with the threads of the couplings? Do I need to use a sealant here?
Soon enough I hope, I will be running the engine. My current plan is to drop
the engine/gearbox in the car, start the engine without plugs until I see oil
pressure on the gauge, then let it run till it's warmed up and get compression
readings and do a leak down test. Any recommendations regarding startup
procedure giving the fact that it might not have run in properly?
I am unsure what pistons and cam I have in the engine currently. The pistons
have a shallow dish, I din't actually measure the dish and will only be able
to do so if/when I take the head off again. I can take a photo of the
underside of the pistons before I put the oil sump back on. Would it be
possible to identify the pistons based on photos? If so I'll post them
online.
Bert
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