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Re: [Fot] Cam Bearings - TR-2 to 4A

To: Jack Wheeler <jwheeler1947@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Cam Bearings - TR-2 to 4A
From: "van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot" <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 2021 09:12:52 +0100 (CET)
Cc: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
References: <1229901918.3385384.1612883901218.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1229901918.3385384.1612883901218@mail.yahoo.com> <CAO=iLWaabkjFUQ_pAysKU0p+d_q2YCbq_cZkGYeLtreeaepraw@mail.gmail.com> <1995415542.3429791.1612889348049@mail.yahoo.com> <1071122770.91111108.1612899217115.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> <1237354710.2182724.1612905224975@mail.yahoo.com>
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Thread-topic: Cam Bearings - TR-2 to 4A
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Very nice crafted tool! More people may be interested. The dimensions can 
simply be deduced I think. 
My tool is similar, except that, instead of the long bar, I've used a threaded 
rod and I pull the bearings in the engine by spinning a nut on the bar, the nut 
is hold back by a large washer. This goes smoothly, but for the rearmost 
bearing, I have to remove the core plug. 
Marcel 


Van: "Jack Wheeler" <jwheeler1947@yahoo.com> 
Aan: "van mulders marcel" <van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be> 
Cc: "fot" <fot@autox.team.net> 
Verzonden: Dinsdag 9 februari 2021 22:13:43 
Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Cam Bearings - TR-2 to 4A 

I started with a 1" steel rod about 2' long. Threaded into one end for a 1/2" 
bolt and made up a thick steel doughnut just slightly under the diameter of the 
cam bores in the block (about 1" thick). Then I made a second nylon doughnut 
sized to just slip inside the bearing. These 2 doughnuts have a 1/2" hole in 
the center, through which the bolt goes, and screws into the end of the 1" 
shaft (steel doughnut first, then the nylon one). 

Then I made up a third doughnut, this one also nylon, with one OD to fit into 
the bore in the front of the block where the front cam bearing goes, and 
another OD somewhat larger. This third doughnut holds the bar straight while 
you drive in the bearing. I will take a [picture and attach. If you are 
interested in the exact dimensions, I can measure it for you. 

Cheers. 

Jack 

On Tuesday, February 9, 2021, 2:33:39 PM EST, <van.mulders.marcel@telenet.be> 
wrote: 


Jack, what kind of driver do you use? 
I use a threaded rod and pull the bearings in. To keep the bearings straight, I 
had a cylinder of some 1" long, made on a lathe, with the outer diameter a bit 
smaller than the outer diameter of the bearing. Over a lenght of some 3mm the 
diameter of this cylinder is a bit smaller, the same as the inner diameter of 
the bearings, in order to slide it into the bearing, keeping the bearing 
straight. When the bearing was not aligned completely right, I bodged it 
sometimes by making the end of the securing bolt a little smaller :-). 
This driving tool is working great, but the core plug at the rear of the engine 
block has to be removed. 
Marcel 


Van: "fot" <fot@autox.team.net> 
Aan: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@gmail.com> 
Cc: "fot" <fot@autox.team.net> 
Verzonden: Dinsdag 9 februari 2021 17:49:08 
Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Cam Bearings - TR-2 to 4A 

I've never seen any cam bearings that were solid rings. The Vandervell bearings 
may look like a complete ring, unless you look real closely and see the clench 
design. I always installed my own cam bearings. I made my own tool years ago. 
When installing non-Vandervell bearings, with a straight cut, I used to put a 
hose clamp around the bearing before I started driving it into the block. This 
kept the ends of the bearing aligned. As I drove the bearing into the block, it 
pushed out of the hose clamp. Obviously, before driving the bearing in, you 
needed to make sure the bearing was properly aligned and the oil holes and the 
securing bolt holes were properly lined up with the block. Not a difficult job 
if you have the right tools (driver, hose clamp and a flashlight), and have 
done it a few times. 

You can run into a problem if the holes in the bearing are not properly lined 
up with the holes where the cam bearing securing bolts screw into the block. 
When you screw the securing bolts in, they may catch part of the bearing, 
pushing it in. If this happens, the cam won't go in and if you force it you may 
score the cam. If this happens, you should get a new bearing, and start over. I 
speak from experience! 

Jack 

On Tuesday, February 9, 2021, 10:46:43 AM EST, J.C. Hassall 
<jhassall@gmail.com> wrote: 


Hey Jack, 
What a great story! 
IFF I recall correctly, when I rebuilt my TR4 last time, the cam bearings were 
complete rings. The machine shop had a rough time aligning the bearing holes 
with the oiler holes in the block. 

I'm just curious. 

tnx 
-- 
jim W4BEA 

On Tue, Feb 9, 2021 at 10:20 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot < [ 
mailto:fot@autox.team.net | fot@autox.team.net ] > wrote: 



I worked for a large diesel engine manufacturer and Vandervell was a major 
bearing supplier to us. I was working on a new product introduction team and 
one day the Vandervell rep was in visiting our purchasing manager. The 
purchasing manager introduced me to the rep, and during the course of our 
discussion I shared with him the fact that I was racing a TR-4 at the time. I 
had recently experienced problems getting Vandervell cam bearings and asked him 
about the status of bearing supply for the TR engine. He said he would look 
into it. 

A few weeks later, our purchasing manager walked into my office with a big box 
and said, "this is for you". He told me that the Vandervell rep had gone back 
to the UK and had one of his materials managers gather all of the TR-2/4 cam 
bearings from all of their major warehouses in the UK, and sent them to me. 
There were over 100 bearings. Since they were all the wide bearings, I had 
about a third of them cut down to the width of the narrow bearing. To make sure 
the oil holes lined up with the holes in the block, the machine shop had to cut 
an equal amount off each side of the bearing to get the appropriate width. 

Where is all this going? Well, I changed the cam bearings (because I had them) 
every time I rebuilt an engine, which was about every 4 races. For whatever 
reason, I kept a number of the used bearings with 4 race weekends on them (or 
less). I have a total of 17 wide bearings, plus one new wide AE bearing, and 9 
narrow bearings, or about 9 sets. I don't know if anyone is interested in 
running used bearings in your race engines, but if you are, I am offering them 
to anyone on the list for the price of the shipping cost. The wear in these 
bearings is visible (see pictures), but barely perceptible when you run your 
finger over the areas of wear. About what you would expect after 3 or 4 pace 
weekends. 

What is the benefit of Vandervell cam bearings? The AE or all the other 
bearings that are on the market today (to my knowledge) have a straight split 
in the bearing, which can result in the ends of the bearing becoming 
misaligned. The Vandervell bearing has a design that looks like a jigsaw puzzle 
piece, where the ends of the bearing are clenched together, preventing 
misalignment. In the third picture attached I tried to get a good shot of this 
feature. 

If anyone is interested in one or more sets of these bearings, let me know how 
many you want. Thanks. 

Jack 
_______________________________________________ 
[ mailto:fot@autox.team.net | fot@autox.team.net ] 

[ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] 

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-- 
jim W4BEA 

The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing 
to work and give to those who would not. 
Thomas Jefferson 

I sometimes feel bad for the smart people - being simple-minded and easily 
entertained is totally the way to go! ;-) 
J. Stoll 


_______________________________________________ 
fot@autox.team.net 

http://www.fot-racing.com 

Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot 




--=_d83f5585-3311-4bfb-9afd-d662cf64fa32
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-seri=
f; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000"><div>Very nice crafted tool! More peopl=
e may be interested. The dimensions can simply be deduced I think.</div><di=
v>My tool is similar, except that, instead of the long bar, I've used a thr=
eaded rod and I pull the bearings in the engine by spinning a nut on the ba=
r, the nut is hold back by a large washer. This goes smoothly, but for the =
rearmost bearing, I have to remove the core plug.</div><div>Marcel</div><di=
v>&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr" data-marker=3D"__DIVIDER__"><=
div data-marker=3D"__HEADERS__"><b>Van: </b>"Jack Wheeler" &lt;jwheeler1947=
@yahoo.com&gt;<br><b>Aan: </b>"van mulders marcel" &lt;van.mulders.marcel@t=
elenet.be&gt;<br><b>Cc: </b>"fot" &lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt;<br><b>Verzonde=
n: </b>Dinsdag 9 februari 2021 22:13:43<br><b>Onderwerp: </b>Re: [Fot] Cam =
Bearings - TR-2 to 4A<br></div><div><br></div><div data-marker=3D"__QUOTED_=
TEXT__"><div class=3D"ydp51e2c56eyahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:'he=
lvetica neue' , 'helvetica' , 'arial' , sans-serif;font-size:13px">
        <div dir=3D"ltr">I started with a 1" steel rod about 2' long.&nbsp;=
 Threaded into one end for a 1/2" bolt and made up a thick steel doughnut j=
ust slightly under the diameter of the cam bores in the block (about 1" thi=
ck).&nbsp; Then I made a second nylon doughnut sized to just slip inside th=
e bearing.&nbsp; These 2 doughnuts have a 1/2" hole in the center, through =
which the bolt goes, and screws into the end of the 1" shaft (steel doughnu=
t first, then the nylon one).</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"l=
tr">Then I made up a third doughnut, this one also nylon, with one OD to fi=
t into the bore in the front of the block where the front cam bearing goes,=
 and another OD somewhat larger.&nbsp; This third doughnut holds the bar st=
raight while you drive in the bearing.&nbsp; I will take a [picture and att=
ach.&nbsp; If you are interested in the exact dimensions, I can measure it =
for you.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Cheers.</div><div=
 dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Jack<br></div><br>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydp871ff72dyahoo_quoted_3627231071" class=3D"ydp87=
1ff72dyahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'helvetica neue' , 'helvetica' , 'ari=
al' , sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Tuesday, February 9, 2021, 2:33:39 PM EST,  &lt;van.=
mulders.marcel@telenet.be&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <br>
                <br>
                <div><div id=3D"ydp871ff72dyiv0830207171"><div><div style=
=3D"font-family:'verdana' , 'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif;font-size:10=
pt;color:#000000"><div>Jack, what kind of driver do you use?&nbsp;</div><di=
v>I use a threaded rod and pull the bearings in. To keep the bearings strai=
ght, I had a cylinder of some 1" long, made on a lathe, with the outer diam=
eter a bit smaller than the outer diameter of the bearing. Over a lenght of=
 some 3mm the diameter of this cylinder is a bit smaller, the same as the i=
nner diameter of the bearings, in order to slide it into the bearing, keepi=
ng the bearing straight. When the bearing was not&nbsp; aligned completely =
right, I bodged it sometimes by making the end of the securing bolt a littl=
e smaller :-).&nbsp;</div><div>This driving tool is working great, but the =
core plug at the rear of the engine block has to be removed.</div><div>Marc=
el</div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div><hr id=3D"ydp871ff72dyiv0830207171zwc=
hr"><div class=3D"ydp871ff72dyiv0830207171yqt8473533341" id=3D"ydp871ff72dy=
iv0830207171yqtfd45571"><div><b>Van: </b>"fot" &lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt;<b=
r clear=3D"none"><b>Aan: </b>"J.C. Hassall" &lt;jhassall@gmail.com&gt;<br c=
lear=3D"none"><b>Cc: </b>"fot" &lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt;<br clear=3D"none"=
><b>Verzonden: </b>Dinsdag 9 februari 2021 17:49:08<br clear=3D"none"><b>On=
derwerp: </b>Re: [Fot] Cam Bearings - TR-2 to 4A<br clear=3D"none"></div><d=
iv><br clear=3D"none"></div></div><div><div class=3D"ydp871ff72dyiv08302071=
71yqt8473533341" id=3D"ydp871ff72dyiv0830207171yqtfd33478"><div class=3D"yd=
p871ff72dyiv0830207171ydp4ffd1c3dyahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:'he=
lvetica neue' , 'helvetica' , 'arial' , sans-serif;font-size:13px">
        <div dir=3D"ltr">I've never seen any cam bearings that were solid r=
ings.&nbsp; The Vandervell bearings may look like a complete ring, unless y=
ou look real closely and see the clench design.&nbsp; I always installed my=
 own cam bearings.&nbsp; I made my own tool years ago.&nbsp; When installin=
g non-Vandervell bearings, with a straight cut, I used to put a hose clamp =
around the bearing before I started driving it into the block.&nbsp; This k=
ept the ends of the bearing aligned.&nbsp; As I drove the bearing into the =
block, it pushed out of the hose clamp.&nbsp; Obviously, before driving the=
 bearing in, you needed to make sure the bearing was properly aligned and t=
he oil holes and the securing bolt holes were properly lined up with the bl=
ock.&nbsp; Not a difficult job if you have the right tools (driver, hose cl=
amp and a flashlight), and have done it a few times.<br clear=3D"none"></di=
v><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">You can run in=
to a problem if the holes in the bearing are not properly lined up with the=
 holes where the cam bearing securing bolts screw into the block.&nbsp; Whe=
n you screw the securing bolts in, they may catch part of the bearing, push=
ing it in.&nbsp; If this happens, the cam won't go in and if you force it y=
ou may score the cam.&nbsp; If this happens, you should get a new bearing, =
and start over.&nbsp; I speak from experience!</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br cl=
ear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Jack<br clear=3D"none"></div><br clear=
=3D"none">
       =20
        </div><div class=3D"ydp871ff72dyiv0830207171ydp9853ccfcyahoo_quoted=
" id=3D"ydp871ff72dyiv0830207171ydp9853ccfcyahoo_quoted_3083776813">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'helvetica neue' , 'helvetica' , 'ari=
al' , sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Tuesday, February 9, 2021, 10:46:43 AM EST, J.C. Has=
sall &lt;jhassall@gmail.com&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <br clear=3D"none">
                <br clear=3D"none">
                <div><div id=3D"ydp871ff72dyiv0830207171ydp9853ccfcyiv09247=
20591"><div><div dir=3D"ltr">Hey Jack,<div>What a great story!&nbsp;&nbsp;<=
/div><div>IFF I recall correctly, when I rebuilt my TR4 last time, the cam =
bearings were complete rings.&nbsp; The machine shop had a rough time align=
ing the bearing holes with the oiler holes in the block.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><=
div><br clear=3D"none"></div><div>I'm just curious.</div><div><br clear=3D"=
none"></div><div>tnx</div><div>--<br clear=3D"none"></div><div>jim&nbsp; W4=
BEA</div></div><br clear=3D"none"><div class=3D"ydp871ff72dyiv0830207171ydp=
9853ccfcyiv0924720591gmail_quote"><div class=3D"ydp871ff72dyiv0830207171ydp=
9853ccfcyiv0924720591yqt7583245858" id=3D"ydp871ff72dyiv0830207171ydp9853cc=
fcyiv0924720591yqt51228"><div class=3D"ydp871ff72dyiv0830207171ydp9853ccfcy=
iv0924720591gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Tue, Feb 9, 2021 at 10:20 AM Jack Wh=
eeler via Fot &lt;<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; rel=
=3D"nofollow nofollow noopener noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team=
.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none"></div><blockquote class=3D"ydp871ff72=
dyiv0830207171ydp9853ccfcyiv0924720591gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px =
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb( 204 , 204 , 204 );padding-left:1ex"><d=
iv><div style=3D"font-family:'helvetica' , 'arial' , sans-serif;font-size:1=
3px"><div dir=3D"ltr">I worked for a large diesel engine manufacturer and V=
andervell was a major bearing supplier to us.&nbsp; I was working on a new =
product introduction team and one day the Vandervell rep was in visiting ou=
r purchasing manager.&nbsp; The purchasing manager introduced me to the rep=
, and during the course of our discussion I shared with him the fact that I=
 was racing a TR-4 at the time.&nbsp; I had recently experienced problems g=
etting Vandervell cam bearings and asked him about the status of bearing su=
pply for the TR engine.&nbsp; He said he would look into it.</div><div dir=
=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">A few weeks later, our p=
urchasing manager walked into my office with a big box and said, "this is f=
or you".&nbsp; He told me that the Vandervell rep had gone back to the UK a=
nd had one of his materials managers gather all of the TR-2/4 cam bearings =
from all of their major warehouses in the UK, and sent them to me.&nbsp; Th=
ere were over 100 bearings.&nbsp; Since they were all the wide bearings, I =
had about a third of them cut down to the width of the narrow bearing.&nbsp=
; To make sure the oil holes lined up with the holes in the block, the mach=
ine shop had to cut an equal amount off each side of the bearing to get the=
 appropriate width.<br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"n=
one"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Where is all this going?&nbsp; Well, I changed =
the cam bearings (because I had them) every time I rebuilt an engine, which=
 was about every 4 races.&nbsp; For whatever reason, I kept a number of the=
 used bearings with 4 race weekends on them (or less).&nbsp; I have a total=
 of 17 wide bearings, plus one new wide AE bearing, and 9 narrow bearings, =
or about 9 sets.&nbsp; I don't know if anyone is interested in running used=
 bearings in your race engines, but if you are, I am offering them to anyon=
e on the list for the price of the shipping cost.&nbsp; The wear in these b=
earings is visible (see pictures), but barely perceptible when you run your=
 finger over the areas of wear.&nbsp; About what you would expect after 3 o=
r 4 pace weekends.<br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"no=
ne"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">What is the benefit of Vandervell cam bearings?&=
nbsp; The AE or all the other bearings that are on the market today (to my =
knowledge) have a straight split in the bearing, which can result in the en=
ds of the bearing becoming misaligned.&nbsp; The Vandervell bearing has a d=
esign that looks like a jigsaw puzzle piece, where the ends of the bearing =
are clenched together, preventing misalignment.&nbsp; In the third picture =
attached I tried to get a good shot of this feature.</div><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">If anyone is interested in one or=
 more sets of these bearings, let me know how many you want.&nbsp; Thanks.<=
/div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Jack<br cle=
ar=3D"none"></div></div></div>_____________________________________________=
__<br clear=3D"none">
<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"nofollow nofoll=
ow noopener noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a><br clear=
=3D"none">
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ow noopener noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br =
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<br clear=3D"none">
</blockquote></div></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br clear=3D"none"></div>--=
 <br clear=3D"none"><div class=3D"ydp871ff72dyiv0830207171ydp9853ccfcyiv092=
4720591gmail_signature" dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><div><span style=3D"color:=
rgb( 0 , 0 , 0 );font-family:'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif;background-=
color:rgb( 250 , 250 , 251 )">jim&nbsp; W4BEA</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<span style=3D"color:rgb( 0 , 0 , 0 );font-family:'arial' , 'helvetica' , s=
ans-serif;background-color:rgb( 250 , 250 , 251 )"><br clear=3D"none"></spa=
n></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"color:rgb( 0 , 0 , 0 );font-family:=
'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif;background-color:rgb( 250 , 250 , 251 )"=
>The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are wi=
lling to work and give to those who would not.</span><br style=3D"color:rgb=
( 0 , 0 , 0 );font-family:'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif;background-col=
or:rgb( 250 , 250 , 251 )" clear=3D"none"><span style=3D"color:rgb( 0 , 0 ,=
 0 );font-family:'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif;background-color:rgb( 2=
50 , 250 , 251 )">Thomas Jefferson</span><br clear=3D"none"></div></div><di=
v dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"color:rgb( 0 , 0 , 0 );font-family:'arial' , '=
helvetica' , sans-serif;background-color:rgb( 250 , 250 , 251 )"><br clear=
=3D"none"></span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>I sometimes feel bad for the s=
mart people - being simple-minded and easily entertained is totally the way=
 to go! ;-)</div><div>J. Stoll</div><div><br clear=3D"none"></div></div></d=
iv></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
</div></div></div>
            </div>
        </div><br clear=3D"none">__________________________________________=
_____<br clear=3D"none">fot@autox.team.net<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"n=
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