1300 spitfires are now in svra group 3. Looks like dual weber 40 dcoes are in
order. Can someone start me with jetting setting for dual 40s on 13/1 motor?
- Dale
On Jan 8, 2014, at 9:53 PM, davehogye <dlhogye@comcast.net> wrote:
> Excellent advice Bob and Steve.
> Taps can cut and or shave material off the original threads. If you can feel
them cutting, that's probably what they are doing. All that's really needed is
to clean the threads. I chased the threads just as suggested here with the
factory grooved studs, relatively recently, during my first "tractor motor"
build and made sure the new studs went in and out cleanly by hand. The grooves
in the factory studs will collect the debris.
>
>
> Dave H.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Yott" <tr4@wi.rr.com>
> To: "Bob Kramer" <rkramer3@austin.rr.com>, "Greg And Alison Blake"
<ablake2@austin.rr.com>
> Cc: "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 8, 2014 3:38:55 PM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Extended bottoming tap for TR4 engine
>
> Just my opinion after many tractor motor rebuilds in all my years. I have
> one of the long taps for this purpose and thought like many that I must
> clean out those threads with a tap. Keep in mind that I still "chase" all
> the other holes in the block but like Bob clean out the threads with a
> standard head bolt. Why? After I began using a tap to clean out the
> threads I had a couple of these holes pull out when doing a final torque
> using ARP head studs. Since then I have gone back to only cleaning up the
> threads with an old bolt and wire brush. Having one of the deep holes strip
> out is a maddening problem and not easily repaired and usually requires a
> new block!
>
> The grooves on the studs are there to prevent oil from building up under the
> stud which can cause a hydraulic lock and strip out the threads also. I
> learned this working at Mercedes in the way back years....
>
> I'm just saying..... be very careful!!!
>
> Steve Yott
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Bob Kramer
> Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2014 3:27 PM
> To: Greg And Alison Blake
> Cc: FOT
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Extended bottoming tap for TR4 engine
>
> I just use old style Triumph studs with the grooves cut into the threads to
> catch swarf, and lots of in and outs until they thread in by hand. This gas
> always worked for me, but I suppose I should step up my game,
>
> Bob Kramer
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jan 8, 2014, at 2:57 PM, Greg And Alison Blake
>> <ablake2@austin.rr.com>
> wrote:
>>
>> I just use a normal length bottoming tap and use a 1/4 socket
>> extension to reach the bottom. You'll want to find the right size
>> socket to marry up
> with
>> the tap and then use some tape or something in case the socket wants
>> to separate from the tap upon removal.
>>
>>
>>> On Jan 8, 2014, at 8:57 AM, marty <trmarty@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi John. I have one I made up that you are more than welcome to
>>> borrow if
>> you
>>> would like. If so, email me your address and I can drop it in the mail.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Marty
>>>
>>>
>>>> Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2014 09:46:04 -0500
>>>> From: johnstydo@gmail.com
>>>> To: fot@autox.team.net
>>>> Subject: [Fot] Extended bottoming tap for TR4 engine
>>>>
>>>> Does anyone have a tool source for a 1/2-13 extended bottoming tap
>>>> to
>> reach
>>>> the four deep head studs on the TR4 pot? Looks like at least 6" OAL.
>>>> Any comments on the value of bottom-tapping blind holes to improve
>>>> stud holding? Thanks _______________________________________________
>>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
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