Thank you Scott !
Indeed the rods came with the Loctite heavy duty anti seize paste (which is
similar in feel to the Permatex anti-seize, but darker in colour) and not so
slippery (certainly less than oil and even more than ARPs lube which is the
slipperiest stuff in circulation).
I do not have a stretch gauge, but this would be ideal of course.
In absence of gauge, Carrillo recommends torqueing to a max of 40lbs the 3/8
WMC (H11) bolts, such as the ones on TR4 rods.
Does the torque of these bolts need to be checked from time to time?
Can these bolts be reused/torqued several times?
Thank you !
Cheers
Alex
De : Scott Janzen [mailto:sjanzen@me.com]
Envoyi : lundi 15 ao{t 2011 23:23
@ : Alexandre Camoletti
Cc : fot@autox.team.net
Objet : Re: [Fot] Carrillo TR3-4 rods torquing
These bolts are typically a much smaller cross-section, high strength
material relative to stock bolts (to keep the rotating weight down) and the
required torque is lower. The bolts on the Carillo rods on my GT6 get only
about 25 lb of torque - probably smaller ones than on your TR4. Read the
instructions carefully - Carrillo specifies what type of lubricant to use on
them at a certain torque (I think some sort of loctite). I once used ARP
lube, thinking it was interchangeable. The ARP lube is much more slippery
and the bolts were over-torqued. You might try using a bolt stretch dial
indicator instead of tightening them to a torque setting.
Why is this important? Those fancy little bolts cost about $30 each if you
over-stretch one!
On Aug 15, 2011, at 5:04 PM, Alexandre Camoletti wrote:
Amici ! Currently building a TR3/4 engine with Carrillo rods.
The set came with the stock Carrillo bolts (called by them WMC/H11) and the
tech sheet says they must be torqued max 40lbs.
While the stock rods and bolts usually are torqued at 60 lbs.
So should I torque the Carrillos at 40 or 60 lbs then ?
Amici, thank you for your very valuable input (as always)!
Cheers
Alex
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