I had that problem with my TR3 years ago, but now my car rarely gets over
180 during a race. You have to trap all the air that is going around your
radiator and force it through the radiator. Use aluminum flashing and sheet
metal screws or pop rivets. It is more difficult with a large-mouth nose.
The small- mouth was easier and more effective. If your oil cooler is
blocking the flow, you will have to move it. I used to have the oil cooler
mounted on the side of the radiator. At present I don't need a cooler at
all. My radiator is stock. I removed the fan and mounted an electric one
behind the radiator for use on the grid. You don't need a fan while moving.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces+spiwakd=aol.com@autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces+spiwakd=aol.com@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
KENMUN@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 4:38 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] cooling down a tr3
fot, just returned from a frustrating week end at sebring raceway. the
racing was on a 1.7 mile course with a lot of time in 2nd/3rd gear and not
many
long straights to cool down. the car would run 7/8 laps with the temp going
up
on every lap. air temp was 90f+. when the gage was full scale (230f+) i'd
come in. with a 7# cap the water was immediately boiling when i turned the
car
off, with a 16# cap when i turned the engine off the hoses blew off. i've
got
the original size rad with a modern 5 row core. it's fairly well sealed so
the
air has to go thru the rad. the oil cooler is mounted in the grill opening
with a shroud between it and the rad. in three years of trying this,
overheating remains my top problem. is there any ultimate solution? thanks
for any
comments or advice. ken m tr3 vintage racer
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