You need a mo biggah radiator. There COULD be some other problem,
like too much advance or some friction someplace, but basically the
stock radiator is for an engine making about 80 HP and rarely using
that. A five row core isn't enough. You need as much radiator as you
can squeeze in and then you can use either an orifice or a thermostat
to control the temp. I've talked about this before, but my cheater TR3
made a lot of ponies even with just a nitrided crank. I had a radiator
made that mounted using the original mounts (that's what the GCR
requires) but filled pretty much the whole nose. You can get an
integral oil cooler or not depending on how you feel about that. It's
actually a really good thing though, when the car is standing still
the water gets hot first and heats the oil, then the oil is cooled by
the air over the radiator when the car is moving.
On Jun 8, 2008, at 1:37 PM, KENMUN@aol.com wrote:
> fot, just returned from a frustrating week end at sebring raceway. the
> racing was on a 1.7 mile course with a lot of time in 2nd/3rd gear
> and not many
> long straights to cool down. the car would run 7/8 laps with the
> temp going up
> on every lap. air temp was 90f+. when the gage was full scale (230f
> +) i'd
> come in. with a 7# cap the water was immediately boiling when i
> turned the car
> off, with a 16# cap when i turned the engine off the hoses blew off.
> i've got
> the original size rad with a modern 5 row core. it's fairly well
> sealed so the
> air has to go thru the rad. the oil cooler is mounted in the grill
> opening
> with a shroud between it and the rad. in three years of trying this,
> overheating remains my top problem. is there any ultimate solution?
> thanks for any
> comments or advice. ken m tr3 vintage racer
>
>
>
> **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking
> with
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Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
Billb@bnj.com
503.936.7660
www.bnj.com
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