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From: Catpusher@aol.com
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To: TRBILBO@aol.com
Subject: Re: rollbars and seats
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 01:36:32 EDT
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In a message dated 6/6/98 8:01:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, TRBILBO@aol.com
writes:
<< An interesting thread. I hope the assumption is that the roll bar is WELDED
to
the frame in these recommendations.. Have seen many vintage bars STILL bolted
in. Thus when the bar breaks loose from the body/frame...and the belts are
>>
<snip> There is more than one way to do things.
In my 30 years in the trenches I have seen a very high number of TR2~6s where
roll bars welded to the frame have ripped off. The TR2~6 frames are made of
very
thin metal, and do not get stronger with age. Welding to this thin metal can
be
done if the plates are large enough and go down the frame sides.
I have always utilized plates on top and bottom of the frame with 4 3/8s
bolts
per plate. The frame can slightly crush but will not fail. Alas, I have
extensively
tested the cage, so I do not rely just on theory. The point is to bolt it in
properly.
As noted, the body and frame need to be tied together, and the top bar
supports
do a great deal to help with this. I made a bolt in cage before cages were
required, and highly recommend some form of cage with a good seat attached.
Most of us will take the body off the frame at some point, and a welded in
system is a major problem at this point.
Remember to include access to the gearbox through the cage.
Good Racing HP
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