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Re: [Roadsters] Late front brake rebuild

To: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>, Roadster List <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Late front brake rebuild
From: Gary and Cindy Ault <aultgc@att.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 11:41:37 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
References: <CAMHhs6eRcuMOiDSH6KPXkhNzq0jBSLwjKiWJRdkyNHxs=dQpdQ@mail.gmail.com> <4F105CC4C72D4E519C38A1EE4F0A5B37@Ranteer.local> <CAMHhs6f2CVJKyMh5QhO_F8cVX=r_KeioRCC1SdbhL5kP7fy9ow@mail.gmail.com>
Ronnie,

Something doesn't sound right with your arrangement.  First of all, the routing 
of the line around the front calipers seems logical given the need to 
distribute fluid to both wheel cylinders.  As long as the lines don't rub the 
wheels, which they don't if properly installed, and the plastic coverings are 
removed so they don't corrode from the outside, they should never leak.  Mine 
never have.

Secondly, there is only one bleeder valve on the two wheel cylinders, and it's 
at the top of one of the cylinders.  The arrangement of the brake lines around 
the wheel cylinders ensures that air cannot get trapped at the top of either 
cylinder.  I've never had a problem bleeding the front brakes with the car on 
jack stands (for access), and I don't make any effort to get the front of the 
car higher than the back.

I bleed the M/C first, then the wheel cylinder furthest from the M/C.  On 
single M/C cars, that means a sequence of RR, LR, RF, LF.  I haven't had to 
bleed the brakes on my '67-1/2, but I suspect I'll need a RR-LF and LR-RF 
sequence, since I think each half of the M/C controls one front and one rear 
cylinder.

Gary


________________________________
 From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Roadster List <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Late front brake rebuild
 

Speedblenders aren't what I was thinking. They probably won't help much
since I have the pressure bleeder, along with a catch bottle so the system
can't suck air back in anyway. I seem to remember something about getting
the front of the car up to get the lines as high as possible.

It seems to me that have a bleed valve on top of each side of the caliper
would have been logical, and having the bleed valve on the bottom of the
wheel cylinders pointing down wasn't the brightest idea, either.

Just sayin'

On Monday, September 15, 2014, dave n <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:

> speed bleeders!!!!!   www.speedbleeder.com
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Ronnie Day
> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 8:31 AM
> To: Roadster List
> Subject: [Roadsters] Late front brake rebuild
>
> While working on my '70 2000 yesterday I found a pinhole in the longer of
> the two hard lines on the driver side caliper so I'm going to have to fix
> that. I've like to have a "Why the hell did you design it that way!"
> discussion with the engineer who designed the front caliper setup, but
> regardless I have to deal with it.
>
> I seem to remember a thread regarding the best way to bleed the front
> calipers and I've dug around, but haven't been able to find it. Can someone
> point me in the right direction? I also think the best thing to do is
> replace all of the hard lines on both calipers so I'm going to be looking
> for replacements. These things are pricy!!
>
> I did buy a Motive pressure bleeder, and although putting the cover plate
> on the master cylinder is a bit fiddly the bleeder works pretty well. That
> should help with bleeding the calipers.
>
> TIA,
> Ron
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