I always try to prelube a motor, too- on a roadster, it's not too difficult.
Otherwise, pulling the plugs and cranking, (after squitring oil down the
bores, and on the cam, if you can)
BUT- I've taken motors apart after they've been sitting for 20 years, and it's
amazing how much oil is still in the bearings. Oil likes the tight bearing
clearances, and surface tension keeps it from running out of the tight gaps.
Also, intelligently designed caps keep a small pool in the bottom of the
bearing, ready to go when the engine's turned.
The big exception is the cam- and it's always working hard, even at a cranking
speed. If you can get at it (U20) grease it with molybdenum grease. On an R,
squirting a bunch of oil down the pushrod tube holes can't hurt...
Toby
> After an engine sits for a long time, I always recommend option #1 -
> spinning the oil pump. That way, it's the only moving part while oil
> makes it's way into all the oil galleys and pathways.
>
> Option #2, spinning the starter moter, still allows metal on metal
> friction until oil makes it's way to the metal parts. If you're going to
> use this option, at least remove the top valve cover and pour oil all
> over the exposed parts.
>
> For option #1, I took a large slotted screwdriver, cut off the handle,
> and ground the tip to match the grooved slot of the pin on top of the
> oil pump (at the base of the distributor mount). It takes a little
> practice to get the parts in proper timing alignment afterwards, but
> it's worth learning.
>
> Fred - So.SF
|