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Re: B cam lobes and timing

To: "Allen Blackmon" <orangedawg@hotmail.com>,
Subject: Re: B cam lobes and timing
From: "reblues" <reblues@reblues.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 00:19:31 -0500
Allen,
I always make sure the cam gear top screw is at 12:00 when the crank pointer
is @ TDC.  If the chain is stretched the screw will be toward the 11:00
position a little (retarded).  It sounds as though you are advanced 1 tooth.
After setting in the correct position. make sure your distributor is
pointing @ # 1 post. The rotor goes counter clockwise. The firing order is
1342.  Do a compression test to see if any valves have been bent.
Good luck
Richard
reblues@reblues.net

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin

----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Blackmon" <orangedawg@hotmail.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 5:04 PM
Subject: B cam lobes and timing


> To List,
>
> What's this?  Another timing question from that moron?  Okay, here's the
> latest.  I suspect the shop that put my engine together screwed up.  When
> the engine is at TDC, what are the positions of the cam lobes for #1 with
a
> B cam?  Should the cam gear top screw be at 12?  If so, then my lobes are
> not at 10 and 2 (more like 11 and 2:30).  Or should the cam lobes be
> equidistantly apart from the "noon" position and pay no attention that the
> cam screw is not at noon?
>
> If you've read my prior posts, you are aware of my problems starting this
> car.  As it is now, I can only get it to run when the ignition is set at
> about 35 - 40 degrees BTDC.  Which if my cam gear is off one tooth,
> corresponds to about 20 BTDC.  Also, my car backfires and I see a bit of
> exhaust coming out of carbs, as well as fule coming back out of both
carbs.
> In this condition it does not run as intended.  I've checked timing and it
> is firing 1-3-4-2 counter clockwise as required.  Also have Gary's EI, so
> that is not a problem.
>
> Further, if I turn the crank by hand (w/o plugs) it is very hard at a few
> points, so hard that I need a bit of help to get it to move.
>
> In looking in the cylinders, I can see in #1 a slight mark that would
> correspond to a valve hitting it.  So it looks like the shop set it up
> wrong.
>
> I have moved the cam gear over one tooth.  Turning the engine by hand is
> easier than the way it was set up by the shop.  I have not yet turned the
> engine over by teh starter as I would like List advice on my issues,
> including cam lobe positions.  TIA
>
> Allen

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