_________________
From: <nlritz@bellsouth.net>
need help with clutch.have lost all fluid more than once fill tank and pedal
gets hard and clutch slips under power. now spring that holds pedal is off
and pedal is up near dash. need part # and about what will i pay for
complete job
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Geez, this is a mixture of crossed images, but I'll give it a shot.
First, the snooty un-Datsun part. please sign your posts and put something
in the subject line. that is not meant to be nasty or have some sort of
tone to it, but if we know who and where you are, there are helpful
resources available. IT WILL SAVE YOU TIME AND $$$, and lead to shorter
replies, which some CERTAINLY appreciate.
Now, clutch related comments.
If you have lost fluid even once, it must be going somewhere. Where is the
leak? If your fluid is going out, then air is going in, and you will have
to rebleed the clutch cylinder(s), both the master and the slave.
That being said, any leak leads to the slave cylinder not actuating fully,
and insufficient disengagement while shifting. (GRIND!)
It has nothing to do with clutch slipping once in gear, unless the
adjustment screw on the slave has been moved too far. (am I right, folks? I
welcome the correction)
climb under the right side of the car aft of the front wheel and have
someone step on the clutch and see the slave cylinder rod move, then see if
any further adjustment exists. Heck, measure where the adjustment currently
is, get the locknuts off, and move the adjustment back and forth and see if
it helps. It may help to understand what is wrong in there, if any.
I am not sure what is meant by 'the pedal is hard'. You mean it is solid
(no air in line) and as hard as the pedal return spring after you have bled
it? Is it harder than the pedal return spring? (could be a mechanical thing
with pedals not letting clutch release fully, leading to slippage) Air in
the line leads to sponginess, as the air is getting compressed.
Finally, costs. Until it is figured what is needed (master cylinde replace,
slave cylinder replace, clutch disk worn) it is difficult to cost. Plus, we
still don't know if you are talking part costs or parts & labor (and I'd bet
Dave in Kailua-Kona pays different labor rates than me here working in the
armpit of industrial Southern California). If you have to do the clutch,
the roadster requires pulling the engine and trans together, and then how
much it will cost you at that point depends on how much you do while the
engine is out (cleaning, the "while I am here I might as well" kind of
thing. among these is the rear engine seal, tranny seal kit, etc).
so, the parts.
clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, clutch disk, throwout
bearing, slave cylinder soft line (connects hard line from master cyl to
slave cyl). If you buy all of these and have them ready when the teardown
happens, you will most probably have all you need when the broken/worn part
is discovered. Your mechanic may not appreciate you buying parts in advance
(as they like adding the mark-up), but if you figure most un-datsun-daily
mechanics will buy 50% of the parts for a 510 first, then have to return
them and go to the vendor (insert shameless vendor plug here) you bought
from anyway, you are saving the effort and grief. Good luck,
Fergus O, 69 2000, HB, CA
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