That Volvo 260 engine was actually a Renault
and made in France. Real Volvo engines had
cast iron blocks.
Thomas
Jim Cawrse wrote:
> Yea, the Volvo sounds strange, but there are
> strange specs a lot closer to home. I did cylander
> heads for a freind with a V6 Lumina. (he had allowed
> a bad waterpump to leak to the point of overheating,
> and blew headgaskets, garage wanted 2,200 to fix, I
> said I would do it for 1000) First of all,
> dont ever buy any of the GM clones of this car,
> it was the hardest 1000 I ever earned.....
>
> But, in any event, after having the heads checked,
> putting in a new waterpump, I was to the point
> of torqueing them down, and the drill was something
> like "torque to 100lbs, then turn an additional
> 1/2 turn"
>
> I forgot the exact torque and procedure...but it was
> an awful lot of torque, and I was sure I would
> snap a bolt somewhere in there.....but I didnt,
> and car ran fine...except it took about a million
> years to start.
>
> Some wierd thing with the lifters on these cars,
> maybe caused by the thick gooy goop that was
> the oil by the time the owner stopped it
> (I changed oil and filter 3X).....but on
> initial start up there was zero compression,
> the engine turned over like a darn electric motor...
> I was sure I had screwed up something in a big big way.
>
> But, eventually it very slowly started sounding like
> and engine and eventually started. After the oil
> changes I went for a test ride, and it ran fine for
> about 15 minutes, then residual crap must have
> zonked the O2 sensor, and the engine went into
> "im confused" mode......after a new O2 sensor I
> finally got the car back to him.
>
> Never again will I work on a front wheel drive
> GM product! Not one single part of the
> tear down and put together showed any remote hint
> that GM concerned themselves with the fact that
> some day someone might have to work on these things....
>
> Jim
> Chesapeake Va
>
> >From: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
> >Reply-To: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
> >To: "Patrick J. Horne" <horne@cs.utexas.edu>, "Gary McCormick"
> ><svgkm@halley.ca.essd.northgrum.com>
> >CC: "Tim Waltz" <printner@worldnet.att.net>,
> ><datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: anti-seize
> >Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 20:02:19 -0400
> >MIME-Version: 1.0
> >Received: from mc2-f29.law16.hotmail.com ([65.54.237.36]) by
> >mc2-s16.law16.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.5600); Tue, 10
> >Sep 2002 17:09:00 -0700
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> >(MDT)
> >Message-ID: <007301c25926$7f537380$58365a18@nyc.rr.com>
> >References: <Pine.GSO.4.33.0209101206300.16322-100000@hank.cs.utexas.edu
> > >
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> >
> >Many new engines are assembled this way.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Patrick J. Horne" <horne@cs.utexas.edu>
> >To: "Gary McCormick" <svgkm@halley.ca.essd.northgrum.com>
> >Cc: "Tim Waltz" <printner@worldnet.att.net>;
> ><datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 1:15 PM
> >Subject: Re: anti-seize
> >
> >
> > > If I decide to use anti-seize on a bolt, I go through a few extra steps
> > > before I put the anti-seize on the bolt. First, I torque the bolt down
> > > dry, and note the relative position of the bolt head. Then I remove the
> > > bolt, put the anti-seize on it, then tighten it back down until the bolt
> > > head is in the same position that it was before applying the anti-seize.
> > >
> > > My old Volvo 260 series manual was strange and used a pointer on the
> > > torque wrench, as well as a protractor to tighten a lot of its engine
> > > bolts. First you torqued the bolts to a minimal torque, say, 10 Ft/Lbs,
> >(I
> > > don't remember what the manual called for, so the 10 Ft/Lbs is for
> >theory
> > > only). Next set the pointer to zero on the protractor, then turned the
> > > bolt the given number of degrees. Sounded strange, but it did the job.
> >The
> > > Volvo 260 was a poor engine to begin with, I'm glad I replaced it with a
> > > 240 engine!
> > >
> > > Peace,
> > > Pat
> > >
> > > - Support Habitat for Humanity, A "hand up", not a "hand out" -
> > >
> > > Pat Horne, Network Manager, Shop Supervisor/Future planner, CS Dept,
> > > University of Texas, 1 University Station C0500,Austin, Tx. 78712-1188
> >USA
> > > voice (512)471-9730, fax (512)471-8885, horne@cs.utexas.edu
> > >
> > > On Tue, 10 Sep 2002, Gary McCormick wrote:
> > >
> > > > A good all-around anti-sieze is the MIL-PRF-83483 material. This
> >stuff
> >is just
> > > > molybdenum disulfide in petrolatum (vaseline, essentially), but for
> >non
> >high-temperature
> > > > applications (don't use it in exhaust manifold studs, for example) it
> >works great. It is
> > > > available at just about any auto parts place. The thing to watch out
> >for
> >when using
> > > > anti-sieze on a threaded fastener is the increased axial load on the
> >lubricated fastener
> > > > which will result from the same torque. With less of the torque input
> >taken up in
> > > > friction, the same torque will yield a higher tensile load - i.e., the
> >bolt will be
> > > > tighter. This is VERY important if the threads are in a softer
> >material
> >such as aluminum -
> > > > and don't ask me how I know this.... ;^).
> > > >
> > > > Gary McCormick
> > > > San Jose, CA
> > > >
> > > > Tim Waltz wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > What do you recommend for anti-seize?? I've read that different
> >people use
> > > > > it on bolts, etc, but any certain kind for different applications?
> > > > >
> > > > > My immediate need is for a trailer hitch ball. The last one I put
> >on
> >froze
> > > > > to itself (no rust). The only familiarity I have with anti-seize is
> >Ti-prep
> > > > > for bolts going into titanium bike frames.
> > > > >
> > > > > Tim
> > > > >
> > > > > /// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
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> _________________________________________________________________
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