I still have a beautiful '66 body and frame for sale for someone that has a
rusted or wrecked hulk. Overall condition is great. It doesn't seem that
it was in an accident that caused any significant damage. The front apron
and front inner fenders are great. The rear panel is great as are the
quarter panels and rocker panels. There is some rust on the front rocker
panel extensions where the bottom of the front fenders mount. It has
really nice doors and a nice hood. The body seems to have original paint
and has primer where some minor cosmetic repairs were made by the skilled
lady that owned it last. The floors have no rust. There are no front
fenders or trunk lid. This car was taken apart for restoration about 10
years ago and has been stored inside all that time except for a few months
this year. There is no engine, trans, windshield, seats or dash included.
It will roll on 4 wheels and is a great candidate for a donor for a rusty
or damaged car. There is a clear California title. This could be made
into a really nice car with the working stuff from a beater that runs.
The price is $700 and that amount won't go far to pay for much body work.
The car is being stored inside a warehouse in the San Diego, CA area.
Let me know if there is some interest,
Stan
Torrance, CA
========
At 09:30 AM 9/27/01 -0500, Hall, Phillip wrote:
>Thanks all for the replies.
>
>Two camps on this.
>
>Weld new panels in. If I remember right, Ross only has panels that fit from
>the seat forward and not under the seat. The stock reinforcements under the
>seat rails are getting pretty bad and I was going to weld in heavier metal
>in these areas. And, the rest of this area is weak from rust, so I would
>need to cut out the complete floor. I will call around for sheet metal and
>see about doing this. What gage is the floor metal? I agree, this is the
>best fix.
>
>Use a good rust converter (not acid) and epoxy. A few have tried the
>fiberglass over metal just to have it rust out again due to lack of
>adhesion. The secret may be the rust converter and epoxy. The epoxy will
>be more flexible and it "breaths" so moister should not get trapped between
>the epoxy/metal interface. I have used a lot of epoxy building wooden boats
>and love the stuff. I have not tried to use it in this application. This
>method would be the easiest.
>
>Phil
>SEROC!!
>
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