Russ,
Don't feel bad. The chroming shop I used totally mangled a NOS Vent window
frame for my 66.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Southwell" <rulee@cityscape.net>
To: <VulForge@aol.com>
Cc: <vlaury@earthlink.net>; <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: Grinders and polishers advice needed
> definitely stand to the side of the centerline, and work below the center,
I
> didn't
> while finishing a knife last year. when the knife finished bouncinng
around the
> shop,
> it had dented my brothers Pontiac, one toolbox, cut a pantsleg, broke thhe
stag
> handle. and made me feel like Homer Simpson DOH!!!
> Russ Southwell 70 1600
>
> VulForge@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Okay, I'll weigh in on polishing.
> > Generaly, bigger and faster is better. For small items your 1/2
horse
> > 3450 motor will work fine. I use a Baldor in that size range for my
jewelry
> > business. For serious polishing on swords and armor I use a 5-horse
> > vari-speed polishing lathe swinging 14 inch buffs. The bigger wheels
give
> > you more surface speed and work faster.
> > The $30 motor will probably work just fine. They tend to skimp
on
> > bearings, so don't expect it to last forever. I'ts nice to mount your
motor
> > on a pedestal to gain some clearance. On a typical grinder unit you
will
> > have to remove the gaurds. I wouldn't bother with multiple motors, it
just
> > takes a minute to change buffs.
> > Like most things, polishing demands good prep. Keep in mind that
what
> > you are doing is making smaller and smaller scratches, and you have to
get
> > rid of all the bigger scratches before you can move on. There are some
new
> > greaseless sanding compounds that do a great job of surface prep and
> > conditioning. From there you can go to a emery compound and then to a
finish
> > compound. You can use the same TYPE of cotton buffs for all three
steps, but
> > make sure to use DIFFERENT buffs. Keep only one compound on each set of
> > buffs or you will put unwanted scratchs on your workpiece. Buffs are
> > directional, they rotate with, not against the stitching. I put on big
> > arrows with a magic marker. Use enough compound to keep the face "wet".
> > For safety, work below the horizontal centerline of the buff.
Trail
> > the edge of your workpiece, don't let the buff grab an edge. Don't let
> > anything loose (esp. clothing or hair) get near the buffer, and stand to
one
> > side or the other of the vertical centerline of the buff. Gloves,
glasses
> > and a dust mask are good ideas. You might want a dip tank, the work can
get
> > really hot!
> > Lighter fluid is a good solvent for the traces of polishing
compound.
> > Clean off between steps so you don't contaminate your buffs.
> > This probably sounds more complicated than it really is. It IS
> > expensive to set up, but supplies last a long time. It's not rocket
science.
> > Go step-by-step and you will get great results.
> >
> > Best of luck!
> >
> > Russell Criswell
> >
> > Kansas City MO
> > 67 1600
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