>I seem to remember some discussion about using the pointless (so to speak)
>distributor from a later model Nissan in the R16 motor. If memory serves,
>it was almost a "drop in" application. What is involved?
>I'm looking for a fix to eliminate the points floating in my vintage racer.
>It starts breaking up near 6000 RPM, runs like crap till 7000, then takes
>off
>like a rocket. Sounds like a harmonic floating to me. . .
>Ideas?
A couple of thoughts. First, do the vintage assoc. rules that you're
running under allow you to update the distributor or run an electronic
ignition if it didn't come on the car from the factory? A friend of mine
here runs vintage and under their rules you can not update to breakerless.
If you can update, I think the upper section of the U-20 dist. is the
same as the L-series, so if the R-16 dist. is also the same (I'm not
sure) you might be able to swap parts around to use the '79/'80 200sx or
pickup dist. top section. This is a very popular and inexpensive swap for
510's and early Z's. You'd probably need to recurve the dist., too. Check
out Jason Gray's excellent site (http://home.att.net/~jason510/) for more
info on the different L-4 distributors and their specs. The most
desirable units have the control box attached to the distributor itself.
As for working with what you have now, I remember that Bob Sharp's crew
used to put a short piece of stiff foam or a piece of neoprene tubing
between the back of the point pivot arm and the spring to dampen high RPM
point bounce. You might give something like that a try. This should
change, hopefully eliminate, the resonant frequency where the point arm
wants to float. If you have to run the OEM distributor, this may your
only fix.
HIH, Ron
________________
Ronnie Day
rday@airmail.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth
'71 510 2-dr (Prepared class autocrosser)
'73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)
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