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SU and Weber Carbs and Fuel Pressure (Matt Silveira)

To: british-cars@autox.team.net
Subject: SU and Weber Carbs and Fuel Pressure (Matt Silveira)
From: mws1@admin01.osi.com (Matt Silveira x292)
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 94 07:48:22 PDT
I don't mean to belabor the point more than it has to be done . . .
but here goes.


Having owned two MGs and having converted one of the two to a 45DCOE
Weber I have a few tips to share:


1.  If you decided to migrate from an SU to an alernate make electric
pump use a pressure regulator!

None of the carbs like to see more than 2-3 psi and they will flood,
dump gas, etc.  Also, beware of installing "high volume" pumps like a
Holley.  (Sure, they work great for 454 Chevys but you're driving
something with half the cubes.) These high volume pumps will only make
matters much worse for flooding, and fuel dumping.

2.  I would recommend installing two filters in the system.  One near
the fuel pump by the gas tank and one near the carb(s).

Two filters are much more effective in keeping out the dirt than one.

3.  When purchasing fuel filters (especially for Webers) don't buy the
PepBoys plastic junk see-through special (I have nothing against
PepBoys, just junky parts).  Remember, a good, professional filter
element will save you four or five times its cost in carb overhauls.
Look to a "performance shop" to find suitable filters (sometimes these
even have a replaceable element to save $$$).

4.  After installing a new pump or filter its a good, safe bet to check
total PSI where the fuel feeds to the carbs.  Make sure that it is
appropriate.

There is something more I may add. . .


I (maybe like others) live in a hot, dry climate in the summer and
sometimes my B's used to vapor lock quite a bit. This is a two pronged
problem.

1.  Look to see if the heat shield between the SU carbs and the
manifold is intact and not cracked.

2.  Make sure the fuel line itself is distanced from any significant
heat source.

Gasoline has a funny tendancy to "flash" from a liquid to a vapor when
it hits the fuel bowls.  Physics really, since the liquid, under
pressure, hits atmosphere and then vaporizes.  This is bad.  To fix the
problem you can rig a "cool can" to cool the fuel or reroute lines.


P.S.  Always use a very high quality (and my preference is steel
braided) fuel line like EARL'S or Aeroquip when connecting from the
steel fuel line to the carbs.

Matt Silveira
Sacramento, CA


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