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MGA frame repairs/floorboards

To: british-cars@autox.team.net
Subject: MGA frame repairs/floorboards
From: mhabich@genesis.nred.ma.us (Michael Habich)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 1994 22:19:52 -0400 (EDT)
Lin Sharpe <sharpe@iglou.com> writes:

> OK, here goes..
> I'm doing a frame off restoration of a 1500 MGA. What is the best way to 
> deal with the doors. They have rather rusty steel and the "dipper guy" 
> said he can't dip AL and Steel in the same vat.. 

The local dipper here (New England Metal Strip, in Worcester, MA) will
dip these.  He uses methylene chloride and who knows what else.  Haven't
seen how it comes out myself.  One concern--after dipping, there isn't any
paint in the seams.  Galvanic corrosion then more likely?

> Are there any special problems to be aware of when patching the A frame 
> on the passenger side foot well frame member? 

Been there, done that.  But I cheated--took grafts from a donor frame.  Al's
right--the frame is very stiff.  Mine was on a rotisserie (indispensible!)
suspended only at the ends, and stayed straight.  Do only one side at a time,
of course.  I used the zinc weld-through coating, then Waxoyl inside after
painting outside.  If you want to separate the halves of the frame sections,
just use an angle grinder on the welds at top and bottom.  When you MIG the
sections back together, they will look just like new.

Anglo Parts in Belgium has full repair sections for the middle of the frame
(from the square crossmember back).  These have a top-hat cross section; they
go from top to bottom weld.  Wish I'd seen these before taking pieces from the
donor--they would have saved many hours.
 
> What's your fav. material for floor boards .. I know wood . but which kind?

If you want to make these you might get Todd Clarke's patterns.  Be warned:
this isn't just jigsaw stuff; there's a good bit of routing too.  I got lazy
and bought from Moss.  Nice parts, actually.   I assume you need to replace
floorboard mounting channels too.  If so, use the floorboards as jigs to 
align them.  A few tacks with the MIG won't bother them at all.  Trying to
use measurements or following the old welds is lots harder and doesn't work
worth a darn anyway (that's why the right rear channel on my car is off...).
> 
> My rockers are shot.. i.e. after they were dipped, they were gone.  I 
> need to know if I should go ahead and buy the pillar-rocker set from moss 
> ($$$) or get someone to build me that inner rocker box.

Yes, Todd has the inner rockers--er, sills.  Does anyone know which B-pillars
(OK, door shut pillars) are good?  Moss doesn't carry these separately, and
I've seen Scarborough's--they were OK, but not great.

I'd be happy to discuss any of this by mail or phone.  Got pictures too!

Mike Habich
7 Cedar St
North Reading, MA  01864
(508) 664-0187
mhabich@genesis.nred.ma.us



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