> To unlock the door from the inside, pull the handle back as if to
>open the door. (amazing the things you discover reading the manual) If that
>doesn't work, you've got an interal problem.
Doesn't work, must be something jammed in the mechanism. Off come
the panels.
> Open the hood. Grab the column at the rubber joint. tuern back and
>forth.
>Watch rack. If rack mooves, you need to spread the mounts further apart. I made
>a tool to do this with a piece of threaded rod, a piece of conduit, and a
>nut that fits on the rod.
It doesn't move visibly, but the symptoms really feel like a moving
rack. It has severe shudder at speed (60+) at center or mild turns. Stronger
turns make it stop and it stays stopped for a while or until I make even a
mild correction in the other direction. Or maybe this is just toe-out or bad
camber? The right front camber is way off (~0, left front I'd guess is 1-2
degrees negative), and I wouldn't be suprised at toe-out. The rack bushings
are poly, new clamps, new tie-rods, no obvious wear in the inner joints,
though the gaiters were dead when I bought the car (replaced since then).
Also, in the man bites dog category: I had to drive the TR6 to work
today in the _rain_, because the Honda is broken (something loose in the rear
hub, '85 CRX).
Randell Jesup
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