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Re: test (fwd)grease cap

To: kl18@sol.acs.unt.edu
Subject: Re: test (fwd)grease cap
From: phile@pwcs.stpaul.gov (Philip J Ethier)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 92 13:13:18 CDT
kl18@sol.acs.unt.edu asked >

>Could someone please tell me how to remove the grease cap on my MGB.
>The cap is within the hub assembly(I've got wire wheels) and has a threaded
>end on  it. My Haynes  manual simply says to withdraw the cap, but I dont see
>how since it is hard to access. 

>TRF told me to put vise grips on the thread and PULL. 
>Unfortunately this did not work. 

NO!  Don't do this, it only messes up the threads.  
I expected better advice from TRF,

Roger Garnet replied =

=It's pretty easy to make a tool for such jobs. Just get a bolt or nut of the
=proper size and thread pitch, and either screw on a longer shaft, or better
=yet, just tack weld on  a shaft/handle to pull off with. (a *very cheap*
=job to pay someone for, if you can't weld/braze/solder them together
=yourself.)

Better than that.  A cheap (<$5) bodyman's slide hammer.  Cobble up whatever 
you need to fit.  If the original threads are still OK, use a deep nut to bolt 
to whatever will attach to the slide hammer.

If the threads are mangled because some idiot told you to use a visegrips, 
this works great:

Take apart the end of the slide hammer which holds in the little sheet metal 
screw they give you.  
Find a small machine screw to replace it.  
Drill a hole in the end of the grease cap stud.  
Tap the hole to match your little machine screw.  
Thread the slide hammer into the stud.
A couple of outward whacks on the slide hammer, and it's out!

It works great, and you can keep the parts around for next time.  
I accidentally drilled all the way through on a Midget once.  
I just left the machine screw in the hole.  
Sealed the dust out, and was always there to be used again.

If you think getting the cap out is fun, wait till you get to play with the 
cotter pin through the tiny access hole in the spline!

BTW, if you are going in to replace the front wheel bearings, check if you can 
get tapered roller bearings.  I found in the Midget that they are cheaper, 
stronger, longer-lasting and adjustable.  You just take out the spacer and 
adjust them like on an ordinary car.

Phil Ethier, THE RIGHT LINE, 672 Orleans Street, Saint Paul, MN   55107-2676
h (612) 224-3105  w (612) 298-5324     phile@pwcs.stpaul.gov
"The workingman's GT-40" - Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman


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