->I would like to get some tips for suspension upgrades for my TR6. I am aware
->of the so called "competition springs", and in fact have a set from TRF in the
->rear of my car. They also have front ones available and I'm interested in
->knowing if that's the way to go. Also I'd like sway bar info. i.e, sizes, are
->addco bars a good bet, etc. Also some shock tips. Can the lever shocks be
->retained, and stiffened up? I heard someone mention STP???
->I'm wondering how much can be done to the TR6. (I know the rear can't be
->lowered though!)
->
Well Dave,
The most important thing to do is to start by replacing every
bushing you can see and the dozen or so you can't see. Replace them with
polyurethene if possible. The folks at British Parts in Oregon carry
most of the urethene bushings you'll need. In my humble opinion, this is one of
the most important thing you can do. Especially the steering rack bushings.
Step 2 is to buy decent tires. These are one of the most overlooked
pieces of your suspension. If you're serious about handling, you have only
2 choices for tires, BFG Comp T/A R1's or Yokohama A008R's. If you want a little
treadlife as well, Yokohama A008's or A001's are other fine choices. Personally
I like the A008's on the street. I use a 195/60HR15 which makes the speedo
wrong, but who cares in the name of performance.
Next is the shocks. Koni or Spax in the front are your only options.
I like the Koni's, but the Spax are easier to adjust. In the back, don't
bother replacing fluid, it won't help. Trust me, we went through this last
year. The thing to do is to throw $130 at Apple Hydralic on Long Island and
have them send you a set of heavy duty shocks. They work great.
Springs: Definitely go for the comp springs all 'round. They can
make a world of difference. Replacing older springs is important in the 6.
Old springs sag badly and can really affect your performance.
Sway bar: Well, a bigger one wouldn't hurt, but I've had really good
luck with the stock one. Adding a rear bar will do terrific things for your
cornering. I have not done it because it violates stock class rules. Would be
fun though. Does not have to be overly large.
Alignment: Go with the alignment proscribed by the Competition
Prep book. Negative camber is your friend. If you don't have a comp prep book,
get one. They make for very interesting reading.
Lowering: Can be accomplished, contrary to popular myth. It ain't easy
however. In the front, shortened springs seem to be the key, in the rear
the ride height is determined by springs and by the length of the shock link.
Shortening the shock link without shortening the spring will result in less
travel and a compressed spring. It sorta looks like this:
v------Spring
___
\
\ | <---- Shock arm
\ o-+ <--- Shock link
\ |
O-----------------|- <--- Trailing Arm
^ M
|---- Trailing arm mount
It means creating a custom shock link. Not fun, doable, but not fun.
You'd have to be really up on the welding skills.
Other things to watch out for: (ie the consequenses)
Doing all this (esp sticky tires) makes life hard on U-joints.
Expect to replace one or two every other year.
Diff mounts: Make sure they are VERY good before you put on the
sticky tires and stiff suspension. I ripped mine out accidentally because I
didn't check....Make sure the mount bushings are in good shape as well.
Ball joints: Life gets short for these cookies as well. Not
really a problem, but it does happen.
Front and rear wheel bearings. Front ones are easy. Back ones
are very expensive. Fortunatly, it's the front ones that seem to die quickest.
(3 or 4 years.)
Tie rod ends: Check 'em at least once a year. Esp if you
replace the rack bushings with poly ones.
Well, that's the TR-6 handling saga.
iii
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