At 04:12 PM 3/23/2015, Brett Kelsey wrote:
>Ib'm also having an issue with both passenger and driver side
window operation.
>It's been an problem since I bought it in 79 but it's next on my to fix list.
>Passenger side takes a lot of effort to move up and down and the window
>doesn't go all the way down.
There are 2 problems here: 1 the effort and 2 the going all the way
down. Do you
have the back issues of the magazine? I did an article back in the
July 2005 issue
of the magazine covering many of the window problems.
1. As far as the effort there are a lot of things that contribute to
that. Here is a
quick over view of the possible causes of the large effort.
a. The window insulation (fuzzy stuff in the window channel) is
now about 40 years old. If the fuzzy are gone then the window can
rub against the rubberish
backing and really increase the friction to operate the window.
b. A bent regulator. Need to fix the regulator.
c. If a 75 then the forward guide rail is not parallel to the
real frame guide,
causing the window to bind.
d. The window is not properly aligned to it's guide rail.
2. As to the window not going all the way down, that's normal. If by
doesn't go all
the way down, you mean the there is about an inch or so of glass
sticking out of
the door. Unfortunately, that is as designed.
There isn't enough room inside the door to receive the entire glass
window. That
being said, there is a rubber bumper in the bottom of the door. Some
people have
removed them to let the window go all the way down. Not a good idea. If the
window is resting on the metal of the door, all the vibration is
transfered to the
window. This can cause the bonding of the window to the channel to
fail and the
window to come unattached, and lead to a broken window. Currently the windows
are getting very hard to come by (spelled expensive).
>To make it seal in the up position I have to press out on the glass
while turning
>the handle.
This sounds like the window may not be going all the way up in the
channel. You'll
need to adjust the various parts of the window mechanism.
>Took the door off last weekend and tried to see what the issue was
but really
>couldn't tell mainly because the entire mechanism is buried behind
the door sheet
>metal with the exception of the small access cutouts.
Again as designed. There is enough access room to do some work on the window
but to easily work on the windows channel and alignment you should
really remove
the door skin. This is not something you want to consider
lightly. However, if the
door skin is delaminating from the door frame, it may be time to look
into that.
You may want to replace the door skin with a new fiberglass skin.
>The drivers side window won't roll all the way up. I decided not to
tackle that one
>until I threw out this call for help.
Again, that sounds like it could be a binding issue do to any or all
of the issues
defined in 1 above.
>Does anyone have any experience on window operation and could offer offer a
>suggestion or two? I'm assuming the window mechanisms were sourced from a
>donor vehicle?
Unfortunately, yes, I believe it was an International Harvester or
something like that. Unfortunately, they are not strong enough for
this application.
If you don't have the back issues, you may want to think about getting them.
But in the mean time, if you don't have the July 2005 issue let me
know and I'll
email you the article I was refering to earlier in this reply.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
65 Rambler Classic
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
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