At 09:48 PM 9/11/2007 +0000, you wrote:
>Either way, should I grind off the POR-15 and Tie Coat Primer at the point
>of contact so the adhesive will have bare metal to grip?
Yes. You should grind the area where the roof panel touches the birdcage,
for glueing, down to bare metal. I personally don't like that idea, but
that's what I've been told by many others. Then uses some self etching
primer - you can get it in a spray can from the auto paint supply houses
for about $15 a can. Then spray the bare metal with this to help seal the
metal, and give the glue something to bond to.
Now this seems a little counter intuative to me. I personally think the
POR 15 will grip to the metal better than the primer. But the glue doesn't
like to bond to the POR - from what I've been told. I guess I should really
do some experimenting with that and some scrap metal and POR 15. To me the
paint will lift and when it does, so does the glue. I'd heard many years
ago, that the glue was to be applied directly to bare metal. But lately
Terry and others are saying to use the self etching primer on the bond
flanges.
>Do most people who have replaced panels use pop rivets, like originally
>used, to hold the panels in place while the adhesive cures and maintain the
>stock look, or do they go custom and skip the rivets and use clamps??
I kept the pop rivets to hold the parts in place, along with the clamps,
while the glue dryed. Then I've left the rivets in place as original.
Been told that they aren't necesary on the A pillars - except again to
originality.
>2. Those of you who have painted, what type of paint (2 part polyurethane,
>Imron, acrylic lacquer, acrylic enamel, etc.) did you use on the exterior
>and what did you use for the underside of the hood??
A lot of that is up to personal preference and your pocket book. Watch out
for the lacquers. They are a lot easier to paint, but more work to get the
paint on - many many coats. Plus the lacquer thinner really cuts into the
underlayment to adhear. Most of the other paints don't melt into the
previous layer like lacquer does.
You will need to seal the acrylic if you plan on painting the entire body.
Terry says to use a water based primer. I'm sorry I just can't accept
water as part of the paint process. Rick (HTC) has used a polyester
primer. So I thought I'd try that. I think it was Everquest's Feather
and Fill. They now call it something different. After 2 coats of that,
I blocked the entire body. Then 2 more coats and blocked it again. I
used about 240 and 300 grit blocking the body. Then I shot 2 coats of a
2K primer (catalized), blocked it again. 2 more coats of 2K primer and
blocked it again. Now it's just about ready for the top coat.
I think I'm going to use a hardened enamel. Probably DuPont's Chroma-color.
end part 2
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone: (757) 495-8229
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