Unless 3M has added something appropriate in the last three years,
they really don't have a glue that works as well long term and can
be 'softened' for panel removal. FWIW, the closest glue that they
would recommend is Scotch-Weld 2216, the adhesive for bonding tiles
on the Columbia, et al spacecraft. It's a two part epoxy and for a
total of 3.5oz. cost me $45US which is more expensive than than the
other. Terry T. tried it and wasn't anymore impressed with it than I
was.
GM
-----Original Message-----
>Hey guys (and gals),
>It can't be a secret what glue to use for binding the door skins to
the
>shells. I called 3m and got a huge lecture on the incongruity of
having
>a glue that holds yet can be easily removed. I told the guy that I
>never said it need be "easily" removed, but he kept on going into
his
>stock answer without giving me the information. I plan on calling
>locktite tomorrow, but I know that this must be well known. I do
know
>that Tanner suggests the hyper-expensive German stuff, but is there
a
>more reasonable American substitute?
>
>Also, I was told of an air compressor substitute for the car
(supposedly
>it is the same as Tanner sells) but before I can say where or what
it
>is, I need to know what the Tanner unit is like. For instance, is
it
>rebuidable, are the motor and compressor more or less separate
units
>with a belt driving the comp? I have ordered the substitute comp
and
>should have it within the week -- I will then report on its
suitability.
>By the way, in no way do I want to step on Tanner's or Hoffman's
toes,
>but if things are found that work well and are more affordable,
then I
>feel that the list should be informed. Any comments on this? I
guess I
>am asking whether you think it is better not to tell (although I
have
>two cars, I am new to the Bricklin fold and don't want to "dis" the
>gurus who have made a living off them long before I came around).
Kim
>
>
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