This conversion will probably work OK for a race car, but not one driven on
the street. I doubt that any lawn tractor battery has the cold cranking amps
or the reserve capacity to start an automotive engine when the temperature
drops into the teens or twenties. Even under the best of conditions, they
won't last long.
The tip about the cables is "very" important. Use the biggest cable possible
and keep the run as short as possible, especially with a battery like a
tractor type with limited capacity. You can't afford to loose any of the
current to resistance in the cable.
Larry Steckel
>From: Michael King <mapco@att.net>
>Reply-To: Michael King <mapco@att.net>
>To: Dave Hardy <dave2020@mindspring.com>, <autox@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Tractor Batteries
>Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 09:50:57 -0500
>
>I'm right in the process of doing the same thing...just make sure you run 2
>gauge cable back to the battery. Anything less is too small. Are you going
>to run it all the way to the trunk area or right behind the front passenger
>seat. I think I'm going to end up running mine to the trunk area. Not sure
>yet though. Anyways, Sears makes a DieHard Gold for $39.99 with 340CCA.
>Thats about the best I found. Their book listed it at 19 lbs but think it
>might actually be lighter..feels like it. Other than that its pretty
>straight forward...Oh, and they are 12V.
>
>Mike
>
>on 2/7/02 3:04 PM, Dave Hardy at dave2020@mindspring.com wrote:
>
> > The battery in my Civic has finally died, and I am considering a lawn
>tractor
> > battery since it is pretty much a dedicated racecar. I went to
>Autozone, and
> > they had a decent selection. The stock battery is 430 CCA, and they had
>a
> > tractor battery that was 300 CCA, which I think will be fine. A bonus
>is that
> > it costs half as much. The problem is that none of them listed a
>voltage. Is
> > it safe to assume that lawn tractors run on 12V? Anyone else done this
>and
> > have any input?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dave Hardy
> > 89 SM
> >
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