Problem is combination of float valves and valves in fuel pump-gas is draining
out of carbs when it sits. Choice is to either replace float valves and valves
in fuel pump or replace with fuel pump with electric pump.
After your engine has been run and gets hot and you shut it down, the fuel in
teh float chambers and fuel line heats up and vaporizes a bit-this increases
the pressure and forces fuel back down the fuel line through the fuel pump if
the valves are weak. Eventually eveything cools down but by then 1/2 of the
float chamber fuel may have gone back into the gas tank. Best solution is an
electric pump which will fill teh float chambers quickly and then allow a quick
start.
I would also suggest replacing the Lucas coil with a coil and step down
resistor from a 1970 Dodge Dart. Wire ignition to the resistor and then run
wire to coil and then from coil to distributor. Then wire in a 12 volt relay
from Radio Shack connected to the starter wire from the ignition switch(goes to
starter solenoid)so that when you turn the key to start, it activates the
relay. Connect the secondary connections of the relay to the coil. Result:
when you are cranking the starter, you are sending 12 volts directly to the
coil (which, because it uses a resistor is actually a 6 volt coil). This
guarantees starts in teh coldest weather.
Jan
CANISDOG@aol.com wrote:
> I just rebuilt the carbs on the series 5 and I have to say, it started a lot
better cold before I rebuilt them. (CD 150's)
I can't seem to start it without having to squirt a little primer in it.
Once warm, the damn thing will start by just looking at it.
It is obviously starving for gas to start. The brass adjustments are out
about 6 turns.
Any help would be great.
Paul
Colorado
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