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Thanks, John. Your thought process on this is quite good. It turned out
that the problem was solved this afternoon, by simply removing the fuse,
lightly sanding its metal ends, then reinserting it into the fuse clips! I
knew *something* was quite there when I measured zero volts on one end of
the fuse and 12.65 on the other! Prior to that, the heater fan, the turn
signals, the wipers, the brake lights and the two gauges didn't work. I
re-inserted that fuse and it's like 20,000 volts into Frankenstein's
monster. It LIVES! Being as the fuse box is relatively new, as are the
fuses, it was hard to imagine (*or* *SEE*) *any *corrosion that could cause
such chaos! All from one green circuit fuse! It's been a long tome since
everything worked so having everything back at the same time is like having
a party with old, long-lost friends! LOL!
Special kudos to IM Sloane for helping me think through this latest
'adventure'....
Thanks for responding,
Dave
On Wed, Aug 17, 2016 at 3:56 PM, John Cyganowski <janah@att.net> wrote:
> <snip> I have been trying to track down the gremlin that's keeping my fuel
> and temp gauges from working. I'll start up the car and those two gauges
> don't function (the voltage and oil pressure gauges work fine). After maybe
> 15 or 20 minutes of
> driving, they'll suddenly kick on and stay on for the rest of the trip.
> Some trips, they
> don't come on at all. <snip>
>
> David-
>
> Those 2 gauges are on the same power circuit. Have someone sit in the car
> while idling, monitoring the gauges.
>
> You push on (I think the top terminals of the fuse box (I think) See what
> that does. If your gauges come up, then I think you need to replace the
> fuse box (not too expensive or difficult (getting the 2 screws out is the
> hard part.)
>
> The TR6 fuse boxes were riveted together. After 40 years of vibration and
> corrosion, they sometimes fail.
>
> Regards-
> John Cyg
> CC92527LO
> 70 Damson
>
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Thanks, John. Your thought process on =
this is quite good. It turned out that the problem was solved this afternoo=
n, by simply removing the fuse, lightly sanding its metal ends, then reinse=
rting it into the fuse clips! I knew <i>something</i> was quite there when =
I measured zero volts on one end of the fuse and 12.65 on the other! Prior =
to that, the heater fan, the turn signals, the wipers, the brake lights and=
the two gauges didn't work. I re-inserted that fuse and it's like =
20,000 volts into Frankenstein's monster. It LIVES! Being as the fuse b=
ox is relatively new, as are the fuses, it was hard to imagine (<u>or</u> <=
u>SEE</u>) <b>any </b>corrosion that could cause such chaos! All from one g=
reen circuit fuse! It's been a long tome since everything worked so hav=
ing everything back at the same time is like having a party with old, long-=
lost friends! LOL!<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-=
family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Special kudos to IM Slo=
ane for helping me think through this latest 'adventure'....<br></d=
iv><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-ser=
if;color:rgb(0,0,153)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font=
-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Thanks for responding,=
<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,s=
ans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Dave<br><br><b=
r></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On =
Wed, Aug 17, 2016 at 3:56 PM, John Cyganowski <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=
=3D"mailto:janah@att.net"; target=3D"_blank">janah@att.net</a>></span> wr=
ote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border=
-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div style=3D"color:#000;backgr=
ound-color:#fff;font-family:HelveticaNeue,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,Lu=
cida Grande,sans-serif;font-size:16px"><div dir=3D"ltr"><snip> I have=
been trying to track down the gremlin that's keeping my fuel and temp =
gauges from working. I'll start up the car and those two gauges don'=
;t function (the voltage and oil pressure gauges work fine). After maybe 15=
or 20 minutes of<span class=3D""><br>driving, they'll suddenly kick on=
and stay on for the rest of the trip. Some trips, they<br></span>don't=
come on at all. <snip></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"l=
tr">David-</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Those 2 gauges =
are on the same power circuit.=C2=A0 Have someone sit in the car while idli=
ng, monitoring the gauges.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
>You push on (I think the top terminals of the fuse box (I think)=C2=A0 See=
what that does.=C2=A0 If your gauges come up, then I think you need to rep=
lace the fuse box (not too expensive or difficult (getting the 2 screws out=
is the hard part.)</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">The TR=
6 fuse boxes were riveted together.=C2=A0 After 40 years of vibration and c=
orrosion, they sometimes fail.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"=
ltr">Regards-</div><div dir=3D"ltr">John Cyg</div><div dir=3D"ltr">CC92527L=
O</div><div dir=3D"ltr">70 Damson<br></div></div></div></blockquote></div><=
br></div>
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