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James,
I did not do the rust repair on my TR250, but since I'm also a Model T
guy, I have done my share. I agree with everyone that suggested
patching. A good butt weld can't be distinguished from original metal
and is just as strong. When I had the rockers repaired, I bought the
replacement piece. Since it was just rusted at the front, the body guy
suggested we just cut off the front part and weld it in, because he
could not duplicate the original spot welds. I'd suggest you get a 110V
MIG welder (Lincoln or Miller). They are cheaper and easier to use than
a TIG, but you will have to do some grinding. If money is an issue, I
have also used good old fashioned gas hammer welding. Here is an
example of stuff I've done with my MIG - www.mtfctulsa.com/ABC_Bodies.
Oklahoma is 49th in education, but our Vo-Tech schools are excellent.
I'd recommend that as a good way to learn.
I should also mention that I did not set out to make my car a show car
and do not drive it like one. I did want to keep it original, because
back in the day, I didn't have the money to modify it. As far as costs
go, you can figure about 1K for a careful media blast and probably 1K
in paint and materials (base coat/clear coat). Its worth it, because
modern catalyzed primer and paints are much better than original. I know
the guy spent at least a couple of full weeks working on it. On top of
those costs, I also stripped my frame and had it blasted and epoxy
primed. I know you don't want to do all of this now, but if you have to
take the body off, then .......
Larry Young
On 6/10/2015 2:59 PM, James_ via 6pack wrote:
> Thanks everyone for the great words and advice.
>
> I want a good job and get her on the road so i can drive it. but with
> all these rusted out sections, i need to repair them first.
> not
> I am totally tempted to go out, buy a TIG welder (a bit expensive) and
> LEARN to weld!
> Seriously. I haven't seen any welding classes over the summer, but
> there will be many in the Fall. But I can teach myself and find
> friends of friends
> instruct me.
> I would not do the floor pans but at least the flat sections needing
> repair. One area is on the firewall
> near the commission plates . probably a 1"x5" section.
>
> So most sections I need are flat sections. Except for the crazy corner
> section directly under the fuse box, master cylinder area.
> Which leads me to this: If I can locate a perfect salvaged inner
> fender and wheel arch that I can extract this crazy multi-sided
> section. I simply cut out the bad and have someone weld in the good
> replacement. saves fabricating from scratch. or do it myself.
>
> Anyone have a good source to find donor panels: wheel arch/inner
> fender sections?
> Ideally here in Oregon, but willing to pay for shipping. Be even nicer
> if someone has the small section I need and not have to ruin a good
> part that is intact.
>
> Thanks.
>
> James
>
>
>
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James,<br>
I did not do the rust repair on my TR250, but since I'm also a Model
T guy, I have done my share. I agree with everyone that suggested
patching. A good butt weld can't be distinguished from original
metal and is just as strong. When I had the rockers repaired, I
bought the replacement piece. Since it was just rusted at the
front, the body guy suggested we just cut off the front part and
weld it in, because he could not duplicate the original spot welds.
I'd suggest you get a 110V MIG welder (Lincoln or Miller). They are
cheaper and easier to use than a TIG, but you will have to do some
grinding. If money is an issue, I have also used good old fashioned
gas hammer welding. Here is an example of stuff I've done with my
MIG - <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://www.mtfctulsa.com/ABC_Bodies";>www.mtfctulsa.com/ABC_Bodies</a>.
Oklahoma is 49th in education,
but our Vo-Tech schools are excellent. I'd recommend that as a good
way to learn. <br>
<br>
I should also mention that I did not set out to make my car a show
car and do not drive it like one. I did want to keep it original,
because back in the day, I didn't have the money to modify it. As
far as costs go, you can figure about 1K for a careful media blast
and probably 1K in paint and materials (base coat/clear coat). Its
worth it, because modern catalyzed primer and paints are much better
than original. I know the guy spent at least a couple of full weeks
working on it. On top of those costs, I also stripped my frame and
had it blasted and epoxy primed. I know you don't want to do all of
this now, but if you have to take the body off, then .......<br>
Larry Young<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/10/2015 2:59 PM, James_ via 6pack
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:BLU179-W8832F6A4B36615CE33437180BD0@phx.gbl"
type="cite">
<style><!--
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<div dir="ltr">Thanks everyone for the great words and advice.
<div>
<style><!--
.ExternalClass #ecxyiv5169001218 body.ecxyiv5169001218hmmessage {
font-size:12pt;
font-family:Calibri;
}
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<div><br>
</div>
<div>
<div>I want a good job and get her on the road so i can
drive it. but with all these rusted out sections, i need
to repair them first.</div>
</div>
<div>not <br>
</div>
<div>I am totally tempted to go out, buy a TIG welder (a bit
expensive) and LEARN to weld!</div>
<div>Seriously. I haven't seen any welding classes over the
summer, but there will be many in the Fall. But I can teach
myself and find friends of friends</div>
<div>instruct me.</div>
<div>I would not do the floor pans but at least the flat
sections needing repair. One area is on the firewall </div>
<div>near the commission plates . <span style="font-size:
12pt;">probably a 1"x5" section.</span></div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>So most sections I need are flat sections. Except for the
crazy corner section directly under the fuse box, master
cylinder area.</div>
<div>Which leads me to this: If I can locate a perfect
salvaged inner fender and wheel arch that I can extract this
crazy multi-sided</div>
<div>section. I simply cut out the bad and have someone weld
in the good replacement. saves fabricating from scratch. or
do it myself. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Anyone have a good source to find donor panels: wheel
arch/inner fender sections?</div>
<div>Ideally here in Oregon, but willing to pay for shipping.
Be even nicer if someone has the small section I need and
not have to ruin a good part that is intact.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>James</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
<br>
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